Weber Conversion

From Holdenpaedia
Revision as of 00:21, 20 July 2007 by ReaperHR (talk | contribs)

Jump to: navigation, search

Page created by T June 23rd 2007:

Back to the Engine Section

Weber Conversion:

EST VK Six Cylinder Weber Conversion:

Submitted by lovemyholden on Fri, 22/06/2007 - 07:04. 202 | VK

Well if there is a better all 'round carbie for the 202 I haven't found it. This really brought my VK Wagon alive! This thing whips of the mark quickly now and really gets going all through the rev range. I personally think it is (near) VK EFI performance, for heaps less work. As a bonus 59 k's more out of my first tank of fuel. Brilliant! More to be done, now the EST needs a little upgrading. Will keep you posted how it goes Cheers LMH

End of submission by LMH.

LMH's Thread

 

Early Model Six Cylinder Weber Conversion:

Submitted by ReaperHR on Sat, 07/07/2007

This is also a relatively easy conversion for an early model 6 cylinder. Generally a 179 to 202 will be able to use the carby untouched, smaller motors may need a carby specialist to rejet the carb to suit. The main issue with the Weber carb on an early model holden is that you will need to convert your accelerator to a cable setup to get the most advantage from the carb, yes it'd be possible to use linkages but it'd be a completely custom setup and more effort than doing a cable conversion. Cable accelerator setups can be taken from early commodores or similar and are relatively easy to fit, simply remove the old accelerator pedal linkages etc bolt/weld the new pedal assembly in and drill a few holes to allow the cable to flow from the pedal to the carb, some sikaflex to fill the holes and stop the cable from moving around too much and you're ready to go.

The Weber conversion is well worth the effort, especially over a stock stromberg carb setup, and you will likely see an economy improvement but definitely a power improvement over your original carbs performance. One final issue worth highlighting is that on the early automatics a kickdown lever ran from the carb to the gearbox, on a cable setup like the Weber you can either invest time and effort in welding up another lever assembly or you can attach another cable from the carb, and run it around the top gearbox to come at the kickdown lever from the rear. This gives you cables running the accelerator and another running the kickdown. It can be a time consuming process doing this conversion but the benefits are well worth while.

Requirements:

Any early holden which already runs a cable accelerator setup will find this conversion amazingly easy to perform. But below are listed some things to look out for and requirements.

1) Cable accelerator setup (pedal assembly, cable)
2) Cable or research into conversion of kickdown on automatic gearboxes (early)
3) Adaptor plate may be required for the carb to manifold
4) Check height of the carb + air filter assembly + adaptor plate to be sure it will all fit under your bonnet.

Images of install on HR Holden (186 with Powerglide):

The carb used is a Weber but I'm unsure what type, from it's appearance I'd say it is a 32/36 DGV which is normally suited to a 2 litre or smaller motor, yet on my HR it has been an awesome carb perhaps it is rejetted? - ReaperHR

Images of a Weber install into a HR Holden. Photos by ReaperHR.

End of submission by ReaperHR

Information

34 ADM Information

Submitted by bf6379 on Mon, 02/07/2007 - 02:52

I am a big fan of these carburettors, so I have put up some pics and an explanation of the function of various parts.

<img longdesc="/index.php/Image:Weber_0_preview.jpg" src="/images/7/7c/Weber_0_preview.jpg" alt="Image:Weber_0_preview.jpg" width="640" height="416" />

# Description
1 Throttle nudger: On the XE/XF Falcons this is used to hold the throttle open slightly during an overrun condition by applying vacuum at the hose fitting. The screw in the top sets how much the throttle is held open. I have never used this mechanism for its intended purpose, but I have used it to cause a fast idle when the air-conditioner is turned on by applying manifold vacuum via a solenoid.
2 Accelerator pump accumulator: Receives the fuel charge from the accelerator pump and controls the discharge rate of the fuel into the air stream.
3 Fuel inlet fitting.
4 Fuel filter plug. There is a small plastic filter under this plug.
5 Fuel return. On some models this is used to return fuel to the fuel tank when item 6 (below) is fitted.
6 Fuel return solenoid fitting. On some models there is a solenoid screwed into this fitting that energises when the throttle is closed, allowing fuel to return to the tank when at idle.
7 Idle solenoid. Allows fuel to flow in the idle circuit when this solenoid is energised. +12 Volts must be applied to this solenoid when the ignition is switched on.
8 Power bypass circuit actuator diaphragm. Allows fuel to flow in the power bypass circuit when low manifold vacuum is sensed.
9 Accelerator pump lever.
10 Electric automatic choke mechanism. Under the green plastic cover there is a heater element and a bi-metallic spring. +12 Volts is applied to the threaded stud in the centre when the ignition is on. The heater element heats up and in time, causes the bi-metallic spring to rotate the choke shaft, causing the choke to open. Loosening the three screws allows the cover to rotate, to adjust the choke to the correct fully open position after warm-up.
11 Fast idle screw. Adjusts the fast idle speed. Operates whenever the choke is partially closed. There are several steps of fast idle due to the operation of a stepped cam inside the choke mechanism. Adjustment should be made for fast idle on the first step after a cold start. Do not use this screw to adjust the normal idle speed.
12 Choke pull-off diaphragm. Cracks the choke open slightly as soon as the engine starts. Under the small brass plug at the centre there is a grub screw that adjusts how much the choke is cracked open.
13 Accelerator pump. Pumps fuel into the air stream, via the accelerator pump accumulator, during hard acceleration.
14 Idle speed screw. Adjusts the idle speed. To be adjusted only after the engine has reached operating temperature, and the choke is fully open.
15 Vacuum advance connection. Connects to the distributor vacuum advance diaphragm.
16 Idle mixture screw. Adjusts the idle fuel/air mixture.
 

Brett.

End of submission by bf6379

32/36 DGAV (DGV, DGEV) Information

Submitted by ReaperHR on Sat, 07/07/2007

The 32/36 DGV is a fairly common upgrade to many makes and model of car, it is designed as an economical performace carburettor. It is a progressive carburettor meaning that the secondary jets don't get used until the carb is pushed to 2/3 throttle, allowing t to be driven sedately or insanely and perform just as well in either. The 32/36 DGV is a manual choke carburettor, the 32/36 DGEV is an automatic electrical choke carburettor and the 32/36 DGAV (pictured below is an automatic water choke carburettor. All 32/36 carburettors share the same design, only the choke assembly is different.

The images below were taken by Ashley186 <img longdesc="/index.php/Image:Weberdgavsmall.JPG" src="/images/5/54/Weberdgavsmall.JPG" alt="Image:weberdgavsmall.JPG" width="635" height="477" />

# Name
1 Accelerator pump
2 Throttle lever
3 Water automatic choke (manual in DGV and electronic in DGEV)
4 Choke pull off diaphragm
5 Fuel inlet
6 Fuel return
7 To vapour canister
8 Idle adjustment screw
 

Weber Acronyms

Acronym Description
DGV, DGAV, DGEV, DFV, DFAV, DMSA, ADF, ADM, DMTR, DIR 2 barrel downdraft, progressive
ICH, ICT 1 barrel downdraft
DGES, DCNF, IDF 2 barrel downdraft, synchronous
IDA 2 or 3 barrel downdraft, synchronous
DCOE 2 barrel sidedraft, synchronous
 

The type of choke is listed by either an A for water (Aqua), E for electric, or neither for manual.

End of submission by ReaperHR

Links:

MattEH's Shed

 

===Terms:===

Terms

Back to the Engine Section