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Temp Gauge Repair

Sun, 13 May 2012 11:05:05 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 11:05, 13 May 2012
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-	<p>Original Submission by T Oct 29th 2006;<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:~~Temp~~.~~seanwalsh.jpg~~\|thumb\|~~Aftermarket~~ Temperature Gauge ~~and Sender (left) HQ Dash Light Sender (right)~~. Click to Enlargen~~. Photo by SeanWalsh~~.]]<br /> </p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===If the Thermal Temperature Gauge on an HQ - WB or up to a VK Commodore doesn't read correctly the problem can be that the Gauge's internal resistor has blown.<br />===Symptoms:===</p><p>Symptoms are that the Gauge will show a positive deflection if the Sender wire is connected to ground but the Gauge itself barely moves when connected to the Temperature Sender even if the Engine is up to Temperature.<br />Replacing the Temperature Sender does not fix the problem.</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_large.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 680 ohm 1 watt Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_135.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_149_1.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===The Cause:===The problem is caused by a failure of the Temperature Gauge's internal Resistor.<br />This Resistor can fail with age but is often caused to fail because it shares a harness with the pink supply line that leads to various parts of the Engine. The pink supply carries 12 Volts and is fed from the Ignition Switch. Sometimes the pink wire can come in contact with the Temperature Sender Wire and push 12 Volts directly into it.<br />The result is that the Internal Resistor in the Temperature Gauge becomes blown by the excessive power through it.<br />The Resistor is there to provide a bias current for the Gauge. Without bias current the Gauge will heavily under-read. <br /><br />===The Fix:===The fix is to fit an external Resistor to the Temperature Sender Wire. This Resistor should have a value of  36 Ohms and be rated to handle 1 Watt. 33 and 39 ohm Resistors will work too.</p><p>[[Image:TemperatureGaugeRepair1.jpg]]<br />Use a red Crimp Lug on each end of the Resistor. Connect one end to a good earth on the chassis and the other end to the Temperature Sender Wire.</p><p>[[Image:DSC02046.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor Adaptor for red Engines. Image by MyEHHolden. Click to Enlargen.]] [[Image:P8170098S.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor on a 202 UC (top right). Note that the Sensor is screwed into the Adaptor. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p>[[Image:Temp_sender.JPG\|thumb\| On blue/black Engines the Dash Gauge Temperature Sender is mounted at the rear of the Engine on the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Phillip Gard. ]]</p><p> </p><p>===Gauge Type Temp Sender:===</p> <div class="submitted">   <a href="http://oldholden.com/user/12197" title="View user profile.">Dr Terry</a> on Sat, 20/12/2008 - 09:05.</div> <div class="content"><p>Hi Guys.</p> <p>The original Holden temp sender units were made by a company called Flexdrive, who made many gauges & senders for Holden over many years. Equivalent VDO temp senders are still available for all models except HD/HR X2.</p> <p>The VDO part number for the HJ/X/Z temp sender is 320.003. The adaptor from 1/2"NPT to 1/8" NPT is 320.053. Both these are currently available.</p> <p>Both threads are NPT NOT BSP. BSP is close, but not close enough for a good fit.</p><p>Dr Terry.</p> <p> </p><p>===Calibration:===Don't heat the Sender above 100 deg C.</p></div><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td align="center">Temperature<br /></td><td align="center"> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td align="center">52 deg C <br /></td><td align="center"> 282 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center">  60 deg C</td><td align="center"> 217 +-36 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 100 deg C</td><td align="center"> 67 +- 11 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 123 deg C</td><td align="center"> 40 ohms </td></tr><tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> Gauge Needle Position</td><td> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td>Cold  <br /></td><td>282 Ohms <br /></td></tr><tr><td> Half </td><td> 74 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> Hot </td><td> 40 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p> </p><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_002.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_003.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_004.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_005.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_006.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod01.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod02.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Faulty_Temperature_Indication Temperature Indication:Faulty ] </p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ecoimpact/HZ+dash+sedan+and+panel+van+comparison/ Jesse Hughes Shed]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/67432 Thread 1]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/101344 Thread 2]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>	+	<p>Original Submission by T Oct 29th 2006;<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:Gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p> </p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===If the Thermal Temperature Gauge on an HQ - WB or up to a VK Commodore doesn't read correctly the problem can be that the Gauge's internal resistor has blown.</p><p>[[Image:Temp.seanwalsh.jpg\|thumb\|Aftermarket Temperature Gauge and Sender (left) HQ Dash Light Sender (right). Click to Enlargen. Photo by SeanWalsh.]]<br /> </p><p>===Symptoms:===</p><p>Symptoms are that the Gauge will show a positive deflection if the Sender wire is connected to ground but the Gauge itself barely moves when connected to the Temperature Sender even if the Engine is up to Temperature.<br />Replacing the Temperature Sender does not fix the problem.</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_large.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 680 ohm 1 watt Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_135.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_149_1.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===The Cause:===The problem is caused by a failure of the Temperature Gauge's internal Resistor.<br />This Resistor can fail with age but is often caused to fail because it shares a harness with the pink supply line that leads to various parts of the Engine. The pink supply carries 12 Volts and is fed from the Ignition Switch. Sometimes the pink wire can come in contact with the Temperature Sender Wire and push 12 Volts directly into it.<br />The result is that the Internal Resistor in the Temperature Gauge becomes blown by the excessive power through it.<br />The Resistor is there to provide a bias current for the Gauge. Without bias current the Gauge will heavily under-read. <br /><br />===The Fix:===The fix is to fit an external Resistor to the Temperature Sender Wire. This Resistor should have a value of  36 Ohms and be rated to handle 1 Watt. 33 and 39 ohm Resistors will work too.</p><p>[[Image:TemperatureGaugeRepair1.jpg]]<br />Use a red Crimp Lug on each end of the Resistor. Connect one end to a good earth on the chassis and the other end to the Temperature Sender Wire.</p><p>[[Image:DSC02046.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor Adaptor for red Engines. Image by MyEHHolden. Click to Enlargen.]] [[Image:P8170098S.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor on a 202 UC (top right). Note that the Sensor is screwed into the Adaptor. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p>[[Image:Temp_sender.JPG\|thumb\| On blue/black Engines the Dash Gauge Temperature Sender is mounted at the rear of the Engine on the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Phillip Gard. ]]</p><p> </p><p>===Gauge Type Temp Sender:===</p> <div class="submitted">   <a href="http://oldholden.com/user/12197" title="View user profile.">Dr Terry</a> on Sat, 20/12/2008 - 09:05.</div> <div class="content"><p>Hi Guys.</p> <p>The original Holden temp sender units were made by a company called Flexdrive, who made many gauges & senders for Holden over many years. Equivalent VDO temp senders are still available for all models except HD/HR X2.</p> <p>The VDO part number for the HJ/X/Z temp sender is 320.003. The adaptor from 1/2"NPT to 1/8" NPT is 320.053. Both these are currently available.</p> <p>Both threads are NPT NOT BSP. BSP is close, but not close enough for a good fit.</p><p>Dr Terry.</p> <p> </p><p>===Calibration:===Don't heat the Sender above 100 deg C.</p></div><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td align="center">Temperature<br /></td><td align="center"> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td align="center">52 deg C <br /></td><td align="center"> 282 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center">  60 deg C</td><td align="center"> 217 +-36 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 100 deg C</td><td align="center"> 67 +- 11 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 123 deg C</td><td align="center"> 40 ohms </td></tr><tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> Gauge Needle Position</td><td> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td>Cold  <br /></td><td>282 Ohms <br /></td></tr><tr><td> Half </td><td> 74 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> Hot </td><td> 40 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p> </p><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_002.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_003.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_004.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_005.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_006.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod01.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod02.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Faulty_Temperature_Indication Temperature Indication:Faulty ] </p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ecoimpact/HZ+dash+sedan+and+panel+van+comparison/ Jesse Hughes Shed]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/67432 Thread 1]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/101344 Thread 2]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>

Faulty Temperature Indication

Sun, 13 May 2012 11:04:28 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 11:04, 13 May 2012
(One intermediate revision not shown.)
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-	<p>Page created by T Oct 30th 2009:</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p~~><br /~~>[[Image:Gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge .Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Indication:==</p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===To test the Gauge, remove the Wire from the Temperature Sender and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Gauge should read full.</p><p>If it doesn't read full, the Gauge is faulty. Troubleshoot the Gauge.</p><p>If it does read Full, the Sender is faulty. Most likely the Gauge's 36 Ohm Internal Resistor has blown. See the [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender Page]  for the fix. </p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Light:==To test the Light, remove the Wire from the Temperature Switch and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Light should glow on.</p> <p>If not, the Light Bulb and/or its holder is faulty. </p> <p>If it does glow, the Switch is faulty.</p><p> [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p>===Links:===<p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender]</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p><p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p>	+	<p>Page created by T Oct 30th 2009:</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:Gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Indication:==</p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===To test the Gauge, remove the Wire from the Temperature Sender and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Gauge should read full.</p><p>If it doesn't read full, the Gauge is faulty. Troubleshoot the Gauge.</p><p>If it does read Full, the Sender is faulty. Most likely the Gauge's 36 Ohm Internal Resistor has blown. See the [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender Page]  for the fix. </p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Light:==To test the Light, remove the Wire from the Temperature Switch and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Light should glow on.</p> <p>If not, the Light Bulb and/or its holder is faulty. </p> <p>If it does glow, the Switch is faulty.</p><p> [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p>===Links:===<p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender]</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p><p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p>

Special:Log/delete

Rusty — Sun, 13 May 2012 10:52:54 GMT

deleted "Tonight someone with and Shall be great luv": content was: 'Image:someone_created_blogsomeone_created_blog_3518.jpgEl Arquitecto David Gabay egresado de la UCV en 1987 es responsable de obras como ...' (and the only contributor was

Faulty Temperature Indication

Sun, 13 May 2012 10:44:19 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 10:44, 13 May 2012
Line 1:		Line 1:
-	<p>Page created by T Oct 30th 2009:</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p><br />[[Image:~~Temp_gauge_001~~.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge .Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Indication:==</p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===~~</p><p>~~To test the Gauge, remove the Wire from the Temperature Sender and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Gauge should read full.~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>If it doesn't read full, the Gauge is faulty. Troubleshoot the Gauge.</p><p>If it does read Full, the Sender is faulty. Most likely the Gauge's 36 Ohm Internal Resistor has blown. See the [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender Page]  for the fix. ~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]] ~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>==Faulty Temperature Light:==To test the Light, remove the Wire from the Temperature Switch and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Light should glow on.</p> <p>If not, the Light Bulb and/or its holder is faulty. </p> <p>If it does glow, the Switch is faulty.</p><p> ~~</p><p>~~[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</~~p> <~~p>===Links:===~~</p><p> </p>~~<p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender]</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p><p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p>	+	<p>Page created by T Oct 30th 2009:</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p><br />[[Image:Gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge .Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Indication:==</p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===To test the Gauge, remove the Wire from the Temperature Sender and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Gauge should read full.</p><p>If it doesn't read full, the Gauge is faulty. Troubleshoot the Gauge.</p><p>If it does read Full, the Sender is faulty. Most likely the Gauge's 36 Ohm Internal Resistor has blown. See the [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender Page]  for the fix. </p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Light:==To test the Light, remove the Wire from the Temperature Switch and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Light should glow on.</p> <p>If not, the Light Bulb and/or its holder is faulty. </p> <p>If it does glow, the Switch is faulty.</p><p> [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p>===Links:===<p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender]</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p><p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p>

Special:Log/upload

Sun, 13 May 2012 10:28:25 GMT

uploaded "Image:Gauge 001.JPG"

Faulty Temperature Indication

Sun, 13 May 2012 10:24:36 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 10:24, 13 May 2012
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-	<p>Page created by T Oct 30th 2009:</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />~~ ~~</p><p>==Faulty Temperature Indication:==~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===</p><p>To test the Gauge, remove the Wire from the Temperature Sender and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Gauge should read full.</p><p> </p><p>If ~~not~~ the Gauge is faulty. Troubleshoot the Gauge.~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>If it does read Full, the Sender is faulty.~~</p><p>   </p><p>~~[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender]</p><p> </p><p>~~==Faulty Temperature Light~~:==</p><p> </p><p>To test the Light, remove the Wire from the Temperature Switch and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Light should glow on.</p> ~~<p> </p>~~ <p>If not the Light Bulb and/or its holder is faulty. </p> ~~<p> </p>~~ <p>If it does glow on, the Switch is faulty.</p><p> </p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p> <p>===Links:===</p><p> </p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender]</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p><p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p>	+	<p>Page created by T Oct 30th 2009:</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p><br />[[Image:Temp_gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge .Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Indication:==</p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===</p><p>To test the Gauge, remove the Wire from the Temperature Sender and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Gauge should read full.</p><p> </p><p>If it doesn't read full, the Gauge is faulty. Troubleshoot the Gauge.</p><p>If it does read Full, the Sender is faulty. Most likely the Gauge's 36 Ohm Internal Resistor has blown. See the [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender Page]  for the fix. </p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p> </p><p>==Faulty Temperature Light:==To test the Light, remove the Wire from the Temperature Switch and short it to Ground. With the Ignition turned on and the Engine stopped the Light should glow on.</p> <p>If not, the Light Bulb and/or its holder is faulty. </p> <p>If it does glow, the Switch is faulty.</p><p> </p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p> <p>===Links:===</p><p> </p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Sender Temperature Sender]</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Temperature_Switch  Temperature Switch]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p><p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p> <p> </p><p> </p>

Temp Gauge Repair

Sun, 13 May 2012 10:04:56 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 10:04, 13 May 2012
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-	<p>Original Submission by T Oct 29th 2006;<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:Temp.seanwalsh.jpg\|thumb\|Aftermarket Temperature Gauge and Sender (left) HQ Dash Light Sender (right). Click to Enlargen. Photo by SeanWalsh.]]<br /> </p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===~~</p><p> </p><p>~~If the Thermal Temperature Gauge on an HQ - WB or up to a VK Commodore doesn't read~~<br />~~correctly the problem can be that the Gauge's internal resistor has blown.<br />===Symptoms:===</p><p>Symptoms are that the Gauge will show a positive deflection if the Sender wire is ~~<br />~~connected to ground but the Gauge itself barely moves when connected to the Temperature Sender even if the Engine is up to Temperature.~~<br />~~<br />Replacing the Temperature Sender does not fix the problem.</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_large.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 680 ohm 1 watt Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]~~</p><p>  ~~</p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_135.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_149_1.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===The Cause:===~~</p><p>~~The problem is caused by a failure of the Temperature Gauge's internal Resistor.~~<br />~~<br />This Resistor can fail with age but is often caused to fail because it shares a harness~~<br />~~with the pink supply line that leads to various parts of the Engine. The pink supply carries~~<br />~~12 Volts and is fed from the Ignition Switch. Sometimes the pink wire can come in contact~~<br />~~with the Temperature Sender Wire and push 12 Volts directly into it.~~<br />~~<br />The result is that the Internal Resistor in the Temperature Gauge becomes blown by the~~<br />~~excessive power through it.~~<br />~~<br />The Resistor is there to provide a bias current for the Gauge. Without bias current the Gauge~~<br />~~will heavily under-read. <br /><br />===The Fix:===~~</p><p>~~The fix is to fit an external Resistor to the Temperature Sender Wire. This Resistor~~<br />~~should have a value of  36 Ohms and be rated to handle 1 Watt. 33 and 39 ohm Resistors will work too.</p><p>[[Image:TemperatureGaugeRepair1.jpg]]~~<br />~~<br />Use a red Crimp Lug on each end of the Resistor. Connect one end to a good earth on the chassis and the other end to the Temperature Sender Wire.~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>[[Image:DSC02046.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor Adaptor for red Engines. Image by MyEHHolden. Click to Enlargen.]]~~<br /> </p><p>~~[[Image:P8170098S.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor on a 202 UC (top right). Note that the Sensor is screwed into the Adaptor. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]~~</p><p> ~~</p><p>[[Image:Temp_sender.JPG\|thumb\| On blue/black Engines the Dash Gauge Temperature Sender is mounted at the rear of the Engine on the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Phillip Gard. ]]</p><p> </p><p>===Gauge Type Temp Sender:===</p~~><br /~~> <div class="submitted">   <a href="http://oldholden.com/user/12197" title="View user profile.">Dr Terry</a> on Sat, 20/12/2008 - 09:05.</div> <div class="content"><p>Hi Guys.</p> <p>The original Holden temp sender units were made by a company called Flexdrive, who made many gauges & senders for Holden over many years. Equivalent VDO temp senders are still available for all models except HD/HR X2.</p> <p>The VDO part number for the HJ/X/Z temp sender is 320.003. The adaptor from 1/2"NPT to 1/8" NPT is 320.053. Both these are currently available.</p> <p>Both threads are NPT NOT BSP. BSP is close, but not close enough for a good fit.</p><p>Dr Terry.</p> <p> </p><p>===Calibration:===~~</p>~~Don't heat the Sender above 100 deg C.<br /></div><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td align="center">Temperature<br /></td><td align="center"> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td align="center">52 deg C <br /></td><td align="center"> 282 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center">  60 deg C</td><td align="center"> 217 +-36 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 100 deg C</td><td align="center"> 67 +- 11 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 123 deg C</td><td align="center"> 40 ohms </td></tr><tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> Gauge Needle Position</td><td> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td>Cold  <br /></td><td>282 Ohms <br /></td></tr><tr><td> Half </td><td> 74 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> Hot </td><td> 40 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p> </p><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_002.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_003.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_004.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_005.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_006.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod01.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod02.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Faulty_Temperature_Indication Temperature Indication:Faulty ] </p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ecoimpact/HZ+dash+sedan+and+panel+van+comparison/ Jesse Hughes Shed]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/67432 Thread 1]</p><p~~><br /><br /~~>[http://oldholden.com/node/101344 Thread 2]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>	+	<p>Original Submission by T Oct 29th 2006;<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:Temp.seanwalsh.jpg\|thumb\|Aftermarket Temperature Gauge and Sender (left) HQ Dash Light Sender (right). Click to Enlargen. Photo by SeanWalsh.]]<br /> </p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===If the Thermal Temperature Gauge on an HQ - WB or up to a VK Commodore doesn't read correctly the problem can be that the Gauge's internal resistor has blown.<br />===Symptoms:===</p><p>Symptoms are that the Gauge will show a positive deflection if the Sender wire is connected to ground but the Gauge itself barely moves when connected to the Temperature Sender even if the Engine is up to Temperature.<br />Replacing the Temperature Sender does not fix the problem.</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_large.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 680 ohm 1 watt Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_135.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_149_1.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===The Cause:===The problem is caused by a failure of the Temperature Gauge's internal Resistor.<br />This Resistor can fail with age but is often caused to fail because it shares a harness with the pink supply line that leads to various parts of the Engine. The pink supply carries 12 Volts and is fed from the Ignition Switch. Sometimes the pink wire can come in contact with the Temperature Sender Wire and push 12 Volts directly into it.<br />The result is that the Internal Resistor in the Temperature Gauge becomes blown by the excessive power through it.<br />The Resistor is there to provide a bias current for the Gauge. Without bias current the Gauge will heavily under-read. <br /><br />===The Fix:===The fix is to fit an external Resistor to the Temperature Sender Wire. This Resistor should have a value of  36 Ohms and be rated to handle 1 Watt. 33 and 39 ohm Resistors will work too.</p><p>[[Image:TemperatureGaugeRepair1.jpg]]<br />Use a red Crimp Lug on each end of the Resistor. Connect one end to a good earth on the chassis and the other end to the Temperature Sender Wire.</p><p>[[Image:DSC02046.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor Adaptor for red Engines. Image by MyEHHolden. Click to Enlargen.]] [[Image:P8170098S.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor on a 202 UC (top right). Note that the Sensor is screwed into the Adaptor. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p>[[Image:Temp_sender.JPG\|thumb\| On blue/black Engines the Dash Gauge Temperature Sender is mounted at the rear of the Engine on the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Phillip Gard. ]]</p><p> </p><p>===Gauge Type Temp Sender:===</p> <div class="submitted">   <a href="http://oldholden.com/user/12197" title="View user profile.">Dr Terry</a> on Sat, 20/12/2008 - 09:05.</div> <div class="content"><p>Hi Guys.</p> <p>The original Holden temp sender units were made by a company called Flexdrive, who made many gauges & senders for Holden over many years. Equivalent VDO temp senders are still available for all models except HD/HR X2.</p> <p>The VDO part number for the HJ/X/Z temp sender is 320.003. The adaptor from 1/2"NPT to 1/8" NPT is 320.053. Both these are currently available.</p> <p>Both threads are NPT NOT BSP. BSP is close, but not close enough for a good fit.</p><p>Dr Terry.</p> <p> </p><p>===Calibration:===Don't heat the Sender above 100 deg C.</p></div><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td align="center">Temperature<br /></td><td align="center"> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td align="center">52 deg C <br /></td><td align="center"> 282 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center">  60 deg C</td><td align="center"> 217 +-36 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 100 deg C</td><td align="center"> 67 +- 11 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 123 deg C</td><td align="center"> 40 ohms </td></tr><tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> Gauge Needle Position</td><td> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td>Cold  <br /></td><td>282 Ohms <br /></td></tr><tr><td> Half </td><td> 74 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> Hot </td><td> 40 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p> </p><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_002.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_003.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_004.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_005.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_006.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod01.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod02.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Faulty_Temperature_Indication Temperature Indication:Faulty ] </p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ecoimpact/HZ+dash+sedan+and+panel+van+comparison/ Jesse Hughes Shed]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/67432 Thread 1]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/101344 Thread 2]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>

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Rusty — Sun, 13 May 2012 02:34:23 GMT

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Temp Gauge Repair

Sat, 12 May 2012 13:17:50 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 13:17, 12 May 2012
(One intermediate revision not shown.)
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-	<p>Original Submission by T Oct 29th 2006;<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:Temp.seanwalsh.jpg\|thumb\|Aftermarket Temperature Gauge and Sender (left) HQ Dash Light Sender (right). Click to Enlargen. Photo by SeanWalsh.]]<br /> </p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===</p><p> </p><p>If the Thermal Temperature Gauge on an HQ - WB or up to a VK Commodore doesn't read<br />correctly the problem can be that the Gauge's internal resistor has blown.<br />===Symptoms:===</p><p>Symptoms are that the Gauge will show a positive deflection if the Sender wire is <br />connected to ground but the Gauge itself barely moves when connected to the Temperature Sender even if the Engine is up to Temperature.<br /><br />Replacing the Temperature Sender does not fix the problem.</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Resistor_large.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 680 ohm 1 watt Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>  </p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_135.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_149_1.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===The Cause:===</p><p>The problem is caused by a failure of the Temperature Gauge's internal Resistor.<br /><br />This Resistor can fail with age but is often caused to fail because it shares a harness<br />with the pink supply line that leads to various parts of the Engine. The pink supply carries<br />12 Volts and is fed from the Ignition Switch. Sometimes the pink wire can come in contact<br />with the Temperature Sender Wire and push 12 Volts directly into it.<br /><br />The result is that the Internal Resistor in the Temperature Gauge becomes blown by the<br />excessive power through it.<br /><br />The Resistor is there to provide a bias current for the Gauge. Without bias current the Gauge<br />will heavily under-read. <br /><br />===The Fix:===</p><p>The fix is to fit an external Resistor to the Temperature Sender Wire. This Resistor<br />should have a value of  36 Ohms and be rated to handle 1 Watt. 33 and 39 ohm Resistors will work too.</p><p>[[Image:TemperatureGaugeRepair1.jpg]]<br /><br />Use a red Crimp Lug on each end of the Resistor. Connect one end to a good earth on the chassis and the other end to the Temperature Sender Wire.</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:DSC02046.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor Adaptor for red Engines. Image by MyEHHolden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /> </p><p>[[Image:P8170098S.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor on a 202 UC (top right). Note that the Sensor is screwed into the Adaptor. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Temp_sender.JPG\|thumb\| On blue/black Engines the Dash Gauge Temperature Sender is mounted at the rear of the Engine on the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Phillip Gard. ]]</p><p> </p><p>===Gauge Type Temp Sender:===</p><br /> <div class="submitted">   <a href="http://oldholden.com/user/12197" title="View user profile.">Dr Terry</a> on Sat, 20/12/2008 - 09:05.</div> <div class="content"><p>Hi Guys.</p> <p>The original Holden temp sender units were made by a company called Flexdrive, who made many gauges & senders for Holden over many years. Equivalent VDO temp senders are still available for all models except HD/HR X2.</p> <p>The VDO part number for the HJ/X/Z temp sender is 320.003. The adaptor from 1/2"NPT to 1/8" NPT is 320.053. Both these are currently available.</p> <p>Both threads are NPT NOT BSP. BSP is close, but not close enough for a good fit.</p><p>Dr Terry.</p> <p> </p><p>===Calibration:===</p>Don't heat the Sender above 100 deg C.<br /></div><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td align="center">Temperature<br /></td><td align="center"> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td align="center">52 deg C <br /></td><td align="center"> 282 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center">  60 deg C</td><td align="center"> 217 +-36 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 100 deg C</td><td align="center"> 67 +- 11 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 123 deg C</td><td align="center"> 40 ohms </td></tr><tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> Gauge Needle Position</td><td> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td>Cold  <br /></td><td>282 Ohms <br /></td></tr><tr><td> Half </td><td> 74 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> Hot </td><td> 40 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p> </p><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by ~~Only Holden~~. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_002.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by ~~Only Holden~~. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_003.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by ~~Only Holden~~. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_004.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by ~~Only Holden~~. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_005.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by ~~Only Holden~~. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_006.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by ~~Only Holden~~. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table~~><p> </p~~><p> </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Faulty_Temperature_Indication Temperature Indication:Faulty ] </p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ecoimpact/HZ+dash+sedan+and+panel+van+comparison/ Jesse Hughes Shed]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/67432 Thread 1]</p><p><br /><br />[http://oldholden.com/node/101344 Thread 2]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>	+	<p>Original Submission by T Oct 29th 2006;<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:Temp.seanwalsh.jpg\|thumb\|Aftermarket Temperature Gauge and Sender (left) HQ Dash Light Sender (right). Click to Enlargen. Photo by SeanWalsh.]]<br /> </p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===</p><p> </p><p>If the Thermal Temperature Gauge on an HQ - WB or up to a VK Commodore doesn't read<br />correctly the problem can be that the Gauge's internal resistor has blown.<br />===Symptoms:===</p><p>Symptoms are that the Gauge will show a positive deflection if the Sender wire is <br />connected to ground but the Gauge itself barely moves when connected to the Temperature Sender even if the Engine is up to Temperature.<br /><br />Replacing the Temperature Sender does not fix the problem.</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Resistor_large.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 680 ohm 1 watt Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>  </p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_135.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_149_1.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===The Cause:===</p><p>The problem is caused by a failure of the Temperature Gauge's internal Resistor.<br /><br />This Resistor can fail with age but is often caused to fail because it shares a harness<br />with the pink supply line that leads to various parts of the Engine. The pink supply carries<br />12 Volts and is fed from the Ignition Switch. Sometimes the pink wire can come in contact<br />with the Temperature Sender Wire and push 12 Volts directly into it.<br /><br />The result is that the Internal Resistor in the Temperature Gauge becomes blown by the<br />excessive power through it.<br /><br />The Resistor is there to provide a bias current for the Gauge. Without bias current the Gauge<br />will heavily under-read. <br /><br />===The Fix:===</p><p>The fix is to fit an external Resistor to the Temperature Sender Wire. This Resistor<br />should have a value of  36 Ohms and be rated to handle 1 Watt. 33 and 39 ohm Resistors will work too.</p><p>[[Image:TemperatureGaugeRepair1.jpg]]<br /><br />Use a red Crimp Lug on each end of the Resistor. Connect one end to a good earth on the chassis and the other end to the Temperature Sender Wire.</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:DSC02046.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor Adaptor for red Engines. Image by MyEHHolden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /> </p><p>[[Image:P8170098S.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor on a 202 UC (top right). Note that the Sensor is screwed into the Adaptor. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Temp_sender.JPG\|thumb\| On blue/black Engines the Dash Gauge Temperature Sender is mounted at the rear of the Engine on the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Phillip Gard. ]]</p><p> </p><p>===Gauge Type Temp Sender:===</p><br /> <div class="submitted">   <a href="http://oldholden.com/user/12197" title="View user profile.">Dr Terry</a> on Sat, 20/12/2008 - 09:05.</div> <div class="content"><p>Hi Guys.</p> <p>The original Holden temp sender units were made by a company called Flexdrive, who made many gauges & senders for Holden over many years. Equivalent VDO temp senders are still available for all models except HD/HR X2.</p> <p>The VDO part number for the HJ/X/Z temp sender is 320.003. The adaptor from 1/2"NPT to 1/8" NPT is 320.053. Both these are currently available.</p> <p>Both threads are NPT NOT BSP. BSP is close, but not close enough for a good fit.</p><p>Dr Terry.</p> <p> </p><p>===Calibration:===</p>Don't heat the Sender above 100 deg C.<br /></div><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td align="center">Temperature<br /></td><td align="center"> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td align="center">52 deg C <br /></td><td align="center"> 282 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center">  60 deg C</td><td align="center"> 217 +-36 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 100 deg C</td><td align="center"> 67 +- 11 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 123 deg C</td><td align="center"> 40 ohms </td></tr><tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> Gauge Needle Position</td><td> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td>Cold  <br /></td><td>282 Ohms <br /></td></tr><tr><td> Half </td><td> 74 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> Hot </td><td> 40 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p> </p><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_002.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_003.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_004.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_005.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_006.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. See GraemeG's recommended Mods below. Photo by Onlyholden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod01.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> <p>[[Image:Fuelgaugeregmod02.jpg \|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by GraemeG. Click to Enlargen.]] <br /> </p></td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Faulty_Temperature_Indication Temperature Indication:Faulty ] </p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ecoimpact/HZ+dash+sedan+and+panel+van+comparison/ Jesse Hughes Shed]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/67432 Thread 1]</p><p><br /><br />[http://oldholden.com/node/101344 Thread 2]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>

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Temp Gauge Repair

Sat, 12 May 2012 12:12:26 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 12:12, 12 May 2012
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-	<p>Original Submission by T Oct 29th 2006;<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:Temp.seanwalsh.jpg\|thumb\|Aftermarket Temperature Gauge and Sender (left) HQ Dash Light Sender (right). Click to Enlargen. Photo by SeanWalsh.]]<br /> </p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===</p><p> </p><p>If the Thermal Temperature Gauge on an HQ - WB or up to a VK Commodore doesn't read<br />correctly the problem can be that the Gauge's internal resistor has blown.<br />===Symptoms:===</p><p>Symptoms are that the Gauge will show a positive deflection if the Sender wire is <br />connected to ground but the Gauge itself barely moves when connected to the Temperature Sender even if the Engine is up to Temperature.<br /><br />Replacing the Temperature Sender does not fix the problem.</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Resistor_large.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 680 ohm 1 watt Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>  </p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_135.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_149_1.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===The Cause:===</p><p>The problem is caused by a failure of the Temperature Gauge's internal Resistor.<br /><br />This Resistor can fail with age but is often caused to fail because it shares a harness<br />with the pink supply line that leads to various parts of the Engine. The pink supply carries<br />12 Volts and is fed from the Ignition Switch. Sometimes the pink wire can come in contact<br />with the Temperature Sender Wire and push 12 Volts directly into it.<br /><br />The result is that the Internal Resistor in the Temperature Gauge becomes blown by the<br />excessive power through it.<br /><br />The Resistor is there to provide a bias current for the Gauge. Without bias current the Gauge<br />will heavily under-read. <br /><br />===The Fix:===</p><p>The fix is to fit an external Resistor to the Temperature Sender Wire. This Resistor<br />should have a value of  36 Ohms and be rated to handle 1 Watt. 33 and 39 ohm Resistors will work too.</p><p>[[Image:TemperatureGaugeRepair1.jpg]]<br /><br />Use a red Crimp Lug on each end of the Resistor. Connect one end to a good earth on the chassis and the other end to the Temperature Sender Wire.</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:DSC02046.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor Adaptor for red Engines. Image by MyEHHolden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /> </p><p>[[Image:P8170098S.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor on a 202 UC (top right). Note that the Sensor is screwed into the Adaptor. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Temp_sender.JPG\|thumb\| On blue/black Engines the Dash Gauge Temperature Sender is mounted at the rear of the Engine on the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Phillip Gard. ]]</p><p> </p><p>===Gauge Type Temp Sender:===</p><br /> <div class="submitted">   <a href="http://oldholden.com/user/12197" title="View user profile.">Dr Terry</a> on Sat, 20/12/2008 - 09:05.</div> <div class="content"><p>Hi Guys.</p> <p>The original Holden temp sender units were made by a company called Flexdrive, who made many gauges & senders for Holden over many years. Equivalent VDO temp senders are still available for all models except HD/HR X2.</p> <p>The VDO part number for the HJ/X/Z temp sender is 320.003. The adaptor from 1/2"NPT to 1/8" NPT is 320.053. Both these are currently available.</p> <p>Both threads are NPT NOT BSP. BSP is close, but not close enough for a good fit.</p><p>Dr Terry.</p> <p> </p><p>===Calibration:===</p>Don't heat the Sender above 100 deg C.<br /></div><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td align="center">Temperature<br /></td><td align="center"> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td align="center">52 deg C <br /></td><td align="center"> 282 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center">  60 deg C</td><td align="center"> 217 +-36 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 100 deg C</td><td align="center"> 67 +- 11 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 123 deg C</td><td align="center"> 40 ohms </td></tr><tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> Gauge Needle Position</td><td> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td>Cold  <br /></td><td>282 Ohms <br /></td></tr><tr><td> Half </td><td> 74 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> Hot </td><td> 40 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table> <br /> <p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Faulty_Temperature_Indication Temperature Indication:Faulty ] </p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ecoimpact/HZ+dash+sedan+and+panel+van+comparison/ Jesse Hughes Shed]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/67432 Thread 1]<br /><br />===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>	+	<p>Original Submission by T Oct 29th 2006;<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p><p>[[Image:Temp.seanwalsh.jpg\|thumb\|Aftermarket Temperature Gauge and Sender (left) HQ Dash Light Sender (right). Click to Enlargen. Photo by SeanWalsh.]]<br /> </p><p>===Faulty Temperature Gauge:===</p><p> </p><p>If the Thermal Temperature Gauge on an HQ - WB or up to a VK Commodore doesn't read<br />correctly the problem can be that the Gauge's internal resistor has blown.<br />===Symptoms:===</p><p>Symptoms are that the Gauge will show a positive deflection if the Sender wire is <br />connected to ground but the Gauge itself barely moves when connected to the Temperature Sender even if the Engine is up to Temperature.<br /><br />Replacing the Temperature Sender does not fix the problem.</p><p>[[Image:Resistor_small.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 36 ohm 1 watt bias Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Resistor_large.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauge showing the internal 680 ohm 1 watt Resistor. Photo by Red Seat. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p>  </p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_135.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HZ_s_dash_comparison_149_1.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Temperature Gauges. Left Panel Van, right Sedan. Photo by Jesse Hughes. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===The Cause:===</p><p>The problem is caused by a failure of the Temperature Gauge's internal Resistor.<br /><br />This Resistor can fail with age but is often caused to fail because it shares a harness<br />with the pink supply line that leads to various parts of the Engine. The pink supply carries<br />12 Volts and is fed from the Ignition Switch. Sometimes the pink wire can come in contact<br />with the Temperature Sender Wire and push 12 Volts directly into it.<br /><br />The result is that the Internal Resistor in the Temperature Gauge becomes blown by the<br />excessive power through it.<br /><br />The Resistor is there to provide a bias current for the Gauge. Without bias current the Gauge<br />will heavily under-read. <br /><br />===The Fix:===</p><p>The fix is to fit an external Resistor to the Temperature Sender Wire. This Resistor<br />should have a value of  36 Ohms and be rated to handle 1 Watt. 33 and 39 ohm Resistors will work too.</p><p>[[Image:TemperatureGaugeRepair1.jpg]]<br /><br />Use a red Crimp Lug on each end of the Resistor. Connect one end to a good earth on the chassis and the other end to the Temperature Sender Wire.</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:DSC02046.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor Adaptor for red Engines. Image by MyEHHolden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /> </p><p>[[Image:P8170098S.JPG\|thumb\|Gauge type Temperature Sensor on a 202 UC (top right). Note that the Sensor is screwed into the Adaptor. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Temp_sender.JPG\|thumb\| On blue/black Engines the Dash Gauge Temperature Sender is mounted at the rear of the Engine on the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Phillip Gard. ]]</p><p> </p><p>===Gauge Type Temp Sender:===</p><br /> <div class="submitted">   <a href="http://oldholden.com/user/12197" title="View user profile.">Dr Terry</a> on Sat, 20/12/2008 - 09:05.</div> <div class="content"><p>Hi Guys.</p> <p>The original Holden temp sender units were made by a company called Flexdrive, who made many gauges & senders for Holden over many years. Equivalent VDO temp senders are still available for all models except HD/HR X2.</p> <p>The VDO part number for the HJ/X/Z temp sender is 320.003. The adaptor from 1/2"NPT to 1/8" NPT is 320.053. Both these are currently available.</p> <p>Both threads are NPT NOT BSP. BSP is close, but not close enough for a good fit.</p><p>Dr Terry.</p> <p> </p><p>===Calibration:===</p>Don't heat the Sender above 100 deg C.<br /></div><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td align="center">Temperature<br /></td><td align="center"> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td align="center">52 deg C <br /></td><td align="center"> 282 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center">  60 deg C</td><td align="center"> 217 +-36 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 100 deg C</td><td align="center"> 67 +- 11 ohms</td></tr><tr><td align="center"> 123 deg C</td><td align="center"> 40 ohms </td></tr><tr><td align="center"> </td><td align="center"> </td></tr></tbody></table><div class="content"> </div><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> Gauge Needle Position</td><td> Resistance</td></tr><tr><td>Cold  <br /></td><td>282 Ohms <br /></td></tr><tr><td> Half </td><td> 74 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> Hot </td><td> 40 Ohms</td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p> </p><table border="10" align="center"><tbody><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_001.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by Only Holden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_002.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by Only Holden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_003.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by Only Holden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_004.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by Only Holden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_005.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by Only Holden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td><td> [[Image:Temp_gauge_006.JPG\|thumb\|HZ Fuel and Temperature Gauge with 7808 Regulator fitted. Photo by Only Holden. Click to Enlargen.]]<br /></td></tr><tr><td> </td><td> </td><td> </td></tr></tbody></table><p> </p><p> </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Faulty_Temperature_Indication Temperature Indication:Faulty ] </p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ecoimpact/HZ+dash+sedan+and+panel+van+comparison/ Jesse Hughes Shed]</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/67432 Thread 1]</p><p><br /><br />[http://oldholden.com/node/101344 Thread 2]</p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>

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Rusty — Sat, 12 May 2012 11:05:25 GMT

deleted "Win cool electronics at the top rated penny Depot auction site get 50 free bids": content was: 'Image:home_Depothome_Depot_5481.jpgBy the way ! Morning loves ! (: Laid in bed thinking about the summer and now can't get to sleeps, w

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Rusty — Fri, 11 May 2012 22:22:38 GMT

deleted "Sounds very fun and religious maybe my community Singing could hold an event like that": content was: 'Image:Singing_BirdsSinging_Birds_4285.jpgMorning, USA. We leave Thursday to see much of you. Tix & info at and "The First Hit" l

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Rusty — Fri, 11 May 2012 14:21:08 GMT

deleted "Replacebandnameswithpancake Club black eyed pancakes": content was: 'Image:ClubClub_3974.jpgRT if you know who Big Kev, Martin, Dave/Nick is.. pq xim hta 100% xD The things I hear come out of people's mouth...' (and the only contri

Horn

Fri, 11 May 2012 12:01:26 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 12:01, 11 May 2012
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-	<p>Page created by T June 30th 2007:<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Image:A10_previewSLOW202.jpg\|thumb\| Horn Relay top left of the image (silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle). Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Slow202.]]</p><p>==Horn:==<br />===Horn Not Working:=== </p><p>[[Image:P8170097BS.JPG\|thumb\|202 UC Torana. Note  the original silver coloured Horn Relay between the Washer Bottle and the 2 black Bosch Headlight Relays. The Headlight Relays each activate one Thermo Fan. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]] </p><p><em>Submitted by T on Sat, 30/06/2007 - 07:06.</em><br />1. Apply power direct to the horn from battery +ve. If it works go to step 2, otherwise replace the horn.<br />2. Find the horn relay. Activate the horn relay by grounding the horn button wire (black wire at the Relay). If the horn works got to 3 otherwise replace the horn relay. Check that the horn fuse is intact.<br />3. Remove the centre pushpad of the steering wheel and short the wire you find there to ground by a spare piece of wire. If the horn works<br />replace the pushpad otherwise go to 4.<br />4. Remove the steering wheel using the proper puller. Check that the horn grounding brush and track are in good condition (no scores in the track and the spring loaded grounding brush is long enough to reach the horn track). If not replace the brush and/or the blinker assembly its mounted in.<br />T</p><p>[[Image:18-06-07_1650.jpg\|thumb\| HZ Premier Horn Relay (round silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle. Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Bruno.]] </p><p>===Replacement Horn Wire:===</p><p><em>Submitted by T on Fri, 13/07/2007 - 13:11.</em></p><div class="content"><p>The horn wire is part of the blinker cable set. The cables enter the steering column via a connector on the left hand side of the column under the dash.</p><p>Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the steering column to the under dash,<br />lower the column and you'll see how the blinker/horn cables slide through.</p><p>Poke a draw wire through. Tie the new wire to the draw wire and pull the new wire through. Crimp the new wire onto the old wire at the brass horn brush.</p><p>T</p><p>===Replacing The Original Horn Relay With Standard 4 Pin Relay:=== </p><p>Locate the original silver can style 3 pin relay in the engine bay (usually on drivers side)</p><p>Unplug the connector and remove the old relay. Cut the connector off.  </p><p>One green wire comes from the fusebox and is the power feed, the other green goes to the horn, its easy to distinguish by looking at which way they go in the harness. The black wire is a negative switch feed from the horn pad on the steering wheel. </p><p> </p><div class="content">Using fully insulated blue female crimp connectors, crimp a terminal onto each of the 3 wires, except that with the Green wire coming from the fusebox, crimp another wire with it (no more than 50mm long) into the same connector, and then crimp another connector onto that extra wire, so you have 2 connectors from the 1 wire. </div><div class="content"> </div><div class="content">Connect the Green wire from the car with the 2 connectors on it to terminals 30 and 86 on the new relay. Connect the black wire to terminal 85 on the relay. Connect the Green wire coming from the horn to terminal 87 on the relay.  </div><p> </p><p>[[Image:DSCF0480_0_0.jpg\|thumb\|Relay suitable for switching the Coil primary current or the horn. Photo by HQDan.]]<br /> </p><p>[[Image:HornRelay.JPG\|thumb\|4 Pin Horn Relay Replacement. Connect the Fused Green Wire to both 30 and 86.  Connect the Black Wire to 85 and the Horn green Wire to pin 87. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HX_steering_wheel.JPG\|thumb\| HX Steering Wheel. Click to enlargen. Photo by <span class="ResultData"><span>Shawn Goodwin</span></span>.]] </p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01768.JPG\|thumb\|With the Horn Pad removed the Horn Wire is exposed. Remove the Yellow Connector from the Horn Pad and short the wire to Ground. The Horn should sound. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01769.JPG\|thumb\|2 screws at the back hold the Horn Pad onto the Steering Wheel. The Screw Holes are visible each side of the yellow Connector. Another way to do the Horn test is to short the Contacts to the Steering Column with a Screwdriver. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01769.JPG\|thumb\|One of the Screw Holes that holds the Horn Pad to the Steering Wheel can be seen to the left of the Steering Wheel centre. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Horn000_3093.jpg\|thumb\|Commodore Steering Column in an FJ. Note the Horn Brush to the left of the Steering Shaft. Photo by FJ53. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornTrack.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Steering Wheel removed showing the copper Horn Track on the underside of the Steering Wheel.  When the copper Track becomes worn out Horn problems result. Photo by Shawn Goodwin. Click to enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:546244_450569804958716_100000171004974_1936438_1638997095_n.jpg\|thumb\|Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p> </p><p>===Related Workguides:=== </p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ReaperHR/HRWorkguides/EngineIgnition/AirHorns/ Installing Air Horns]<br /><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/Wheel+Nut/HZ+Premier/18-06-07_1649.jpg.html Bruno's Shed]</p></div><p> </p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p>	+	<p>Page created by T June 30th 2007:<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Image:A10_previewSLOW202.jpg\|thumb\| Horn Relay top left of the image (silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle). Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Slow202.]]</p><p>==Horn:==<br />===Horn Not Working:=== </p><p>[[Image:P8170097BS.JPG\|thumb\|202 UC Torana. Note  the original silver coloured Horn Relay between the Washer Bottle and the 2 black Bosch Headlight Relays. The Headlight Relays each activate one Thermo Fan. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]] </p><p><em>Submitted by T on Sat, 30/06/2007 - 07:06.</em><br />1. Apply power direct to the horn from battery +ve. If it works go to step 2, otherwise replace the horn.<br />2. Find the horn relay. Activate the horn relay by grounding the horn button wire (black wire at the Relay). If the horn works got to 3 otherwise replace the horn relay. Check that the horn fuse is intact.<br />3. Remove the centre pushpad of the steering wheel and short the wire you find there to ground by a spare piece of wire. If the horn works<br />replace the pushpad otherwise go to 4.<br />4. Remove the steering wheel using the proper puller. Check that the horn grounding brush and track are in good condition (no scores in the track and the spring loaded grounding brush is long enough to reach the horn track). If not replace the brush and/or the blinker assembly its mounted in.<br />T</p><p>[[Image:18-06-07_1650.jpg\|thumb\| HZ Premier Horn Relay (round silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle. Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Bruno.]] </p><p>===Replacement Horn Wire:===</p><p><em>Submitted by T on Fri, 13/07/2007 - 13:11.</em></p><div class="content"><p>The horn wire is part of the blinker cable set. The cables enter the steering column via a connector on the left hand side of the column under the dash.</p><p>Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the steering column to the under dash,<br />lower the column and you'll see how the blinker/horn cables slide through.</p><p>Poke a draw wire through. Tie the new wire to the draw wire and pull the new wire through. Crimp the new wire onto the old wire at the brass horn brush.</p><p>T</p><p>===Replacing The Original Horn Relay With Standard 4 Pin Relay:=== </p><p>Locate the original silver can style 3 pin relay in the engine bay (usually on drivers side)</p><p>Unplug the connector and remove the old relay. Cut the connector off.  </p><p>One green wire comes from the fusebox and is the power feed, the other green goes to the horn, its easy to distinguish by looking at which way they go in the harness. The black wire is a negative switch feed from the horn pad on the steering wheel. </p><p> </p><div class="content">Using fully insulated blue female crimp connectors, crimp a terminal onto each of the 3 wires, except that with the Green wire coming from the fusebox, crimp another wire with it (no more than 50mm long) into the same connector, and then crimp another connector onto that extra wire, so you have 2 connectors from the 1 wire. </div><div class="content"> </div><div class="content">Connect the Green wire from the car with the 2 connectors on it to terminals 30 and 86 on the new relay. Connect the black wire to terminal 85 on the relay. Connect the Green wire coming from the horn to terminal 87 on the relay.  </div><p> </p><p>[[Image:DSCF0480_0_0.jpg\|thumb\|Relay suitable for switching the Coil primary current or the horn. Photo by HQDan.]]<br /> </p><p>[[Image:HornRelay.JPG\|thumb\|4 Pin Horn Relay Replacement. Connect the Fused Green Wire to both 30 and 86.  Connect the Black Wire to 85 and the Horn green Wire to pin 87. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HX_steering_wheel.JPG\|thumb\| HX Steering Wheel. Click to enlargen. Photo by <span class="ResultData"><span>Shawn Goodwin</span></span>.]] </p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01768.JPG\|thumb\|With the Horn Pad removed the Horn Wire is exposed. Remove the Yellow Connector from the Horn Pad and short the wire to Ground. The Horn should sound. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01769.JPG\|thumb\|2 screws at the back hold the Horn Pad onto the Steering Wheel. The Screw Holes are visible each side of the yellow Connector. Another way to do the Horn test is to short the Contacts to the Steering Column with a Screwdriver. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01769.JPG\|thumb\|One of the Screw Holes that holds the Horn Pad to the Steering Wheel can be seen to the left of the Steering Wheel centre. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Horn000_3093.jpg\|thumb\|Commodore Steering Column in an FJ. Note the Horn Brush to the left of the Steering Shaft. Photo by FJ53. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornTrack.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Steering Wheel removed showing the copper Horn Track on the underside of the Steering Wheel.  When the copper Track becomes worn out Horn problems result. Photo by Shawn Goodwin. Click to enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:546244_450569804958716_100000171004974_1936438_1638997095_n.jpg\|thumb\|Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Brush.JPG\|thumb\|Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p> </p><p>===Related Workguides:=== </p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ReaperHR/HRWorkguides/EngineIgnition/AirHorns/ Installing Air Horns]<br /><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/Wheel+Nut/HZ+Premier/18-06-07_1649.jpg.html Bruno's Shed]</p></div><p> </p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p>

Sports Steering Wheel

Fri, 11 May 2012 12:00:38 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 12:00, 11 May 2012
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-	<p>Page created by T May 11 2012:</p><p> </p><p>==Sports Steering Wheel:==</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:~~546244_450569804958716_100000171004974_1936438_1638997095_n~~.~~jpg~~\|thumb\|Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p> </p>	+	<p>Page created by T May 11 2012:</p><p> </p><p>==Sports Steering Wheel:==</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Brush.JPG\|thumb\|Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p> </p>

Special:Log/upload

Fri, 11 May 2012 11:51:00 GMT

uploaded "Image:Brush.JPG"

Sports Steering Wheel

Fri, 11 May 2012 11:21:25 GMT

New page: Page created by T May 11 2012: ==Sports Steering Wheel:== [[Image:546244_450569804958716_100000171004974_1936438_1638997095_n.jpg|thumb|Horn Conta...

New page

Page created by T May 11 2012: ==Sports Steering Wheel:== [[Image:546244_450569804958716_100000171004974_1936438_1638997095_n.jpg|thumb|Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.]]

Horn

Fri, 11 May 2012 11:16:08 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 11:16, 11 May 2012
Line 1:		Line 1:
-	<p>Page created by T June 30th 2007:<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Image:A10_previewSLOW202.jpg\|thumb\| Horn Relay top left of the image (silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle). Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Slow202.]]</p><p>==Horn:==<br />===Horn Not Working:=== </p><p>[[Image:P8170097BS.JPG\|thumb\|202 UC Torana. Note  the original silver coloured Horn Relay between the Washer Bottle and the 2 black Bosch Headlight Relays. The Headlight Relays each activate one Thermo Fan. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]] </p><p><em>Submitted by T on Sat, 30/06/2007 - 07:06.</em><br />1. Apply power direct to the horn from battery +ve. If it works go to step 2, otherwise replace the horn.<br />2. Find the horn relay. Activate the horn relay by grounding the horn button wire (black wire at the Relay). If the horn works got to 3 otherwise replace the horn relay. Check that the horn fuse is intact.<br />3. Remove the centre pushpad of the steering wheel and short the wire you find there to ground by a spare piece of wire. If the horn works<br />replace the pushpad otherwise go to 4.<br />4. Remove the steering wheel using the proper puller. Check that the horn grounding brush and track are in good condition (no scores in the track and the spring loaded grounding brush is long enough to reach the horn track). If not replace the brush and/or the blinker assembly its mounted in.<br />T</p><p>[[Image:18-06-07_1650.jpg\|thumb\| HZ Premier Horn Relay (round silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle. Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Bruno.]] </p><p>===Replacement Horn Wire:===</p><p><em>Submitted by T on Fri, 13/07/2007 - 13:11.</em></p><div class="content"><p>The horn wire is part of the blinker cable set. The cables enter the steering column via a connector on the left hand side of the column under the dash.</p><p>Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the steering column to the under dash,<br />lower the column and you'll see how the blinker/horn cables slide through.</p><p>Poke a draw wire through. Tie the new wire to the draw wire and pull the new wire through. Crimp the new wire onto the old wire at the brass horn brush.</p><p>T</p><p>===Replacing The Original Horn Relay With Standard 4 Pin Relay:=== </p><p>Locate the original silver can style 3 pin relay in the engine bay (usually on drivers side)</p><p>Unplug the connector and remove the old relay. Cut the connector off.  </p><p>One green wire comes from the fusebox and is the power feed, the other green goes to the horn, its easy to distinguish by looking at which way they go in the harness. The black wire is a negative switch feed from the horn pad on the steering wheel. </p><p> </p><div class="content">Using fully insulated blue female crimp connectors, crimp a terminal onto each of the 3 wires, except that with the Green wire coming from the fusebox, crimp another wire with it (no more than 50mm long) into the same connector, and then crimp another connector onto that extra wire, so you have 2 connectors from the 1 wire. </div><div class="content"> </div><div class="content">Connect the Green wire from the car with the 2 connectors on it to terminals 30 and 86 on the new relay. Connect the black wire to terminal 85 on the relay. Connect the Green wire coming from the horn to terminal 87 on the relay.  </div><p> </p><p>[[Image:DSCF0480_0_0.jpg\|thumb\|Relay suitable for switching the Coil primary current or the horn. Photo by HQDan.]]<br /> </p><p>[[Image:HornRelay.JPG\|thumb\|4 Pin Horn Relay Replacement. Connect the Fused Green Wire to both 30 and 86.  Connect the Black Wire to 85 and the Horn green Wire to pin 87. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HX_steering_wheel.JPG\|thumb\| HX Steering Wheel. Click to enlargen. Photo by <span class="ResultData"><span>Shawn Goodwin</span></span>.]] </p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01768.JPG\|thumb\|With the Horn Pad removed the Horn Wire is exposed. Remove the Yellow Connector from the Horn Pad and short the wire to Ground. The Horn should sound. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01769.JPG\|thumb\|2 screws at the back hold the Horn Pad onto the Steering Wheel. The Screw Holes are visible each side of the yellow Connector. Another way to do the Horn test is to short the Contacts to the Steering Column with a Screwdriver. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01769.JPG\|thumb\|One of the Screw Holes that holds the Horn Pad to the Steering Wheel can be seen to the left of the Steering Wheel centre. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Horn000_3093.jpg\|thumb\|Commodore Steering Column in an FJ. Note the Horn Brush to the left of the Steering Shaft. Photo by FJ53. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornTrack.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Steering Wheel removed showing the copper Horn Track on the underside of the Steering Wheel.  When the copper Track becomes worn out Horn problems result. Photo by Shawn Goodwin. Click to enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>===Related Workguides:=== </p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ReaperHR/HRWorkguides/EngineIgnition/AirHorns/ Installing Air Horns]<br /><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/Wheel+Nut/HZ+Premier/18-06-07_1649.jpg.html Bruno's Shed]</p></div><p> </p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p>	+	<p>Page created by T June 30th 2007:<br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]<br />[[Image:A10_previewSLOW202.jpg\|thumb\| Horn Relay top left of the image (silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle). Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Slow202.]]</p><p>==Horn:==<br />===Horn Not Working:=== </p><p>[[Image:P8170097BS.JPG\|thumb\|202 UC Torana. Note  the original silver coloured Horn Relay between the Washer Bottle and the 2 black Bosch Headlight Relays. The Headlight Relays each activate one Thermo Fan. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]] </p><p><em>Submitted by T on Sat, 30/06/2007 - 07:06.</em><br />1. Apply power direct to the horn from battery +ve. If it works go to step 2, otherwise replace the horn.<br />2. Find the horn relay. Activate the horn relay by grounding the horn button wire (black wire at the Relay). If the horn works got to 3 otherwise replace the horn relay. Check that the horn fuse is intact.<br />3. Remove the centre pushpad of the steering wheel and short the wire you find there to ground by a spare piece of wire. If the horn works<br />replace the pushpad otherwise go to 4.<br />4. Remove the steering wheel using the proper puller. Check that the horn grounding brush and track are in good condition (no scores in the track and the spring loaded grounding brush is long enough to reach the horn track). If not replace the brush and/or the blinker assembly its mounted in.<br />T</p><p>[[Image:18-06-07_1650.jpg\|thumb\| HZ Premier Horn Relay (round silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle. Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Bruno.]] </p><p>===Replacement Horn Wire:===</p><p><em>Submitted by T on Fri, 13/07/2007 - 13:11.</em></p><div class="content"><p>The horn wire is part of the blinker cable set. The cables enter the steering column via a connector on the left hand side of the column under the dash.</p><p>Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the steering column to the under dash,<br />lower the column and you'll see how the blinker/horn cables slide through.</p><p>Poke a draw wire through. Tie the new wire to the draw wire and pull the new wire through. Crimp the new wire onto the old wire at the brass horn brush.</p><p>T</p><p>===Replacing The Original Horn Relay With Standard 4 Pin Relay:=== </p><p>Locate the original silver can style 3 pin relay in the engine bay (usually on drivers side)</p><p>Unplug the connector and remove the old relay. Cut the connector off.  </p><p>One green wire comes from the fusebox and is the power feed, the other green goes to the horn, its easy to distinguish by looking at which way they go in the harness. The black wire is a negative switch feed from the horn pad on the steering wheel. </p><p> </p><div class="content">Using fully insulated blue female crimp connectors, crimp a terminal onto each of the 3 wires, except that with the Green wire coming from the fusebox, crimp another wire with it (no more than 50mm long) into the same connector, and then crimp another connector onto that extra wire, so you have 2 connectors from the 1 wire. </div><div class="content"> </div><div class="content">Connect the Green wire from the car with the 2 connectors on it to terminals 30 and 86 on the new relay. Connect the black wire to terminal 85 on the relay. Connect the Green wire coming from the horn to terminal 87 on the relay.  </div><p> </p><p>[[Image:DSCF0480_0_0.jpg\|thumb\|Relay suitable for switching the Coil primary current or the horn. Photo by HQDan.]]<br /> </p><p>[[Image:HornRelay.JPG\|thumb\|4 Pin Horn Relay Replacement. Connect the Fused Green Wire to both 30 and 86.  Connect the Black Wire to 85 and the Horn green Wire to pin 87. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HX_steering_wheel.JPG\|thumb\| HX Steering Wheel. Click to enlargen. Photo by <span class="ResultData"><span>Shawn Goodwin</span></span>.]] </p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01768.JPG\|thumb\|With the Horn Pad removed the Horn Wire is exposed. Remove the Yellow Connector from the Horn Pad and short the wire to Ground. The Horn should sound. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01769.JPG\|thumb\|2 screws at the back hold the Horn Pad onto the Steering Wheel. The Screw Holes are visible each side of the yellow Connector. Another way to do the Horn test is to short the Contacts to the Steering Column with a Screwdriver. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornDSC01769.JPG\|thumb\|One of the Screw Holes that holds the Horn Pad to the Steering Wheel can be seen to the left of the Steering Wheel centre. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:Horn000_3093.jpg\|thumb\|Commodore Steering Column in an FJ. Note the Horn Brush to the left of the Steering Shaft. Photo by FJ53. Click to Enlargen.]]</p><p> </p><p>[[Image:HornTrack.jpg\|thumb\|HZ Steering Wheel removed showing the copper Horn Track on the underside of the Steering Wheel.  When the copper Track becomes worn out Horn problems result. Photo by Shawn Goodwin. Click to enlargen.]]</p><p>[[Image:546244_450569804958716_100000171004974_1936438_1638997095_n.jpg\|thumb\|Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.]] </p><p> </p><p>===Related Workguides:=== </p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/ReaperHR/HRWorkguides/EngineIgnition/AirHorns/ Installing Air Horns]<br /><p>  </p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://gallery.oldholden.com/Wheel+Nut/HZ+Premier/18-06-07_1649.jpg.html Bruno's Shed]</p></div><p> </p><p>===Terms:===</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/Terms Terms]</p><p><br />[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical Back to Electrical Index]</p>

Special:Log/upload

Fri, 11 May 2012 11:05:20 GMT

uploaded "Image:546244 450569804958716 100000171004974 1936438 1638997095 n.jpg"

Special:Log/delete

Rusty — Fri, 11 May 2012 08:55:55 GMT

deleted "User:210.120.118.215": content was: 'The purifiers pangs associated with financial mess that may proper grip most of this cutting-edge world, adult males still a fabulous wish to turn out...' (and the only contributor was '[[Special:Contribut

User:Danward

Danward — Thu, 10 May 2012 23:29:07 GMT

New page:      Hi all i'm dan and i have a hz kingswood panelvan that's broken.The chassis where the shocker tower is on the drivers side has completly broken off it ha...

New page

Hi all i'm dan and i have a hz kingswood panelvan that's broken.The chassis where the shocker tower is on the drivers side has completly broken off it has been welded before and was hoping i could get a replacement section and cut and weld it on is there any such part and what's my best options i've have been told it's a common problem thanxs for any info dan

Special:Log/delete

Rusty — Thu, 10 May 2012 22:52:05 GMT

deleted "User talk:MulinuWuwule": content was: 'In many nations around the world around the globe, the use of stun guns[http://wholesaledefenseonline.com/Zap-Stun-Guns_c11.htm they are here] could p...' (and the only contributor was '[[Special:Contrib

Special:Log/delete

Rusty — Thu, 10 May 2012 22:52:02 GMT

deleted "Invitamos a los jóvenes a acompañar Price al Candidato a las 1030am en Av135 con 19 sur Sindicato ElectricistasJuntosXQuintanaRoo": content was: 'Image:PricePrice_2171.jpgAlberto Garzón: "De aquí a diez años no tiene cabida la

8 Volt Regulator

Thu, 10 May 2012 16:46:18 GMT

←Older revision		Revision as of 16:46, 10 May 2012
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-	<p>Page created by T Apr 21st 2008:</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical  Back to Electrical ]</p><p>==8 Volt Regulator:==</p><p>A regulator IC exists behind the dash of many Old Holden's from UC/VB/WB onwards. Sometimes the Regulator fails. If ~~they fail~~ by going open circuit there will be no voltage supplied to the gauges and the Gauges will read zero. If ~~they fail~~ by going short circuit the gauges will overread. </~~p><~~p> ~~</p><p>[[Image:8_Volt_Regulator.JPG]] </p><p> </p>~~<p>===Voltage Regulator:===The TCA700Y-ITT Voltage Regulator IC is used on Old Holdens. Websites show this as being a 10 volt device. Even though the number is the same, those used on Holdens are 8 Volt 220 milliamp devices. </p><p>This Regulator is used on VB, WB, VC, VH, and UC at least. Previous models used mechanical thermal voltage stabilisers rather than this semiconductor device.</p><p>The Voltage Regulator is mounted on the alloy frame of the Thermal Gauges as an attempt to provide thermal compensation.</p><p> </p><p>===Substitute Regulator:=== </p><p>A 7808 Regulator is available from Jaycar or RS Components. If a 7808 dash voltage regulator is not available a + 8 volt regulator can be made by biasing a 7805 +5 volt regulator. See the Diagram.</p><p> </p><p>===Temperature Sensitive Resistor:===</p><p>A  Temperature Sensitive Resistor is connected to one Leg of the Regulator as a further means of ~~Te,perature~~ Compensation. </p><p>[[Image:TCA700Y-ITT_Regulator.JPG\|thumb\|TCA700Y-ITT Regulator as used on Holdens from UC onwards.. Click to Enlargen. Image by T.]]</p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/59999 Thread 1] </p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/101290 Thread 2] </p><p>===Terms:=== [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/Terms Terms]</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical  Back to Electrical ]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>	+	<p>Page created by T Apr 21st 2008:</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical  Back to Electrical ]</p><p>==8 Volt Regulator:==</p><p>A regulator IC exists behind the dash of many Old Holden's from UC/VB/WB onwards. </p><p> </p><p>===Regulator Failure:===Sometimes the Regulator fails. If it fails by going open circuit there will be no voltage supplied to the gauges and the Gauges will read zero. If it fails by going short circuit the gauges will overread. </p> <p>===Voltage Regulator:===The TCA700Y-ITT Voltage Regulator IC is used on Old Holdens. Websites show this as being a 10 volt device. Even though the number is the same, those used on Holdens are 8 Volt 220 milliamp devices. </p><p>This Regulator is used on VB, WB, VC, VH, and UC at least. Previous models used mechanical thermal voltage stabilisers rather than this semiconductor device.</p><p>The Voltage Regulator is mounted on the alloy frame of the Thermal Gauges as an attempt to provide thermal compensation.</p><p> </p><p>===Substitute Regulator:=== </p><p>A 7808 Regulator is available from Jaycar or RS Components. If a 7808 dash voltage regulator is not available a + 8 volt regulator can be made by biasing a 7805 +5 volt regulator. See the Diagram.</p><p>[[Image:8_Volt_Regulator.JPG]] </p><p> </p><p>===Temperature Sensitive Resistor:===</p><p>A  Temperature Sensitive Resistor is connected to one Leg of the Regulator as a further means of Temperature Compensation. </p><p>[[Image:TCA700Y-ITT_Regulator.JPG\|thumb\|TCA700Y-ITT Regulator as used on Holdens from UC onwards.. Click to Enlargen. Image by T.]]</p><p>===Links:===</p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/59999 Thread 1] </p><p>[http://oldholden.com/node/101290 Thread 2] </p><p>===Terms:=== [http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/Terms Terms]</p><p>[http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/index.php/General_information#Electrical  Back to Electrical ]<br />[[Category:Electrical]]</p>