VW

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Page created by T Jul 18th 2007:

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Animated VW Engine

VW Kombi Engine viewed from the offside. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Grazza

VW:

This page has been created to share the subtle air cooled VW problems that are known to occur.

Things to do When the Engine is Removed:

Like many European cars some jobs are best done, or can only be done, with the Engine removed.Any time the Engine is being removed, as when the clutch is being replaced, these items should be considered.

Oil Cooler Seals Replacement:

=Engine End Starter Bush:

=Dim Lights:

The same causes as Old Holdens. A fix is easy. See the Dim Lights page.

Coil Failure:

VW coils hang upside down on the nearside of the engine. A wire harness runs between the coil and the air cooling cover.The wire vibrates with the engine and wears through the light alloy covering of the coil.As a result the oil runs out of the coil and makes a mess on the engine. Coil failure follows since there is no oil inside to cool the windings.

Splits in the Rear Bobtail:

These are caused by a worn and/or poorly adjusted Clutch Plate. Replace the clutch plate and pressure plate if any judder on take-off occurs or the body will soon split.

Oil all Over the Engine:

The Oil Cooler lives on the top of the Engine. The Oil Cooler Seals go hard and leak Oil all over the Engine. The seals are easy to replaceif the cowl is removed. It's easier to remove the cowl when the engine has been removed from the Engine.

Slow Cranking Speed:

The Starter sounds healthy but is slow. See the Dim Lights page.

Grindy Starter:

This is distinct from a Starter that's slow but not noisey. One of the starter bushes is mounted into the Engine block. When this bush wears the Starter gets noisey. The bush is a challenge to replace with the engine in the car but relatively easy with the engine removed.

Mysterious Engine Stoppages:

1. Insufficient heat is getting to the Carburettor resulting in Carburettor Ice. Caused because the heat exchanger pipe in the Inlet Manifold is blocked and needs clearing out. See the Carburettor Ice Page.2. The Fuel Pump Pushrod is seizing on the bakelite insulator. Unbolt the Fuel Pump and check the insulator for fitment. It must be able to drop into the crankcase with ease. If it doesn't, place the insulator in a vise and file around it until it drops easily into the crankcase. This will allow for expansion and prevent the push rod from sticking in the highest position when the engine heats up. 

Links:

Fuel Pump Pushrod Sticking

Terms:

Terms

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