Useful Stuff for the Car

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The Earlier Type Rocker Gear on a 179 Engine. Sealing Clips from  a Bread Loaf are a great way to label pushrods for preserving their locations.  Image and Idea by GREEN EH STN WGN 3. Click to Enlargen

Useful Stuff for the Car:

The following came from this  thread:

Thanks to all who contributed.Spray Grease. A lithium based grease that sprays like WD40 but then turns to grease. Useful for lubricting those hard to get at/hard to get into things like bonnet hinges, pivots, etc. Spray Lithium Grease is also good on window winder gears, rollers etc.SEM Vinyl Prep. Good for getting Armourall, grease, built up dirt etc off your vinyl in preparation for painting or just a general clean-up of your interior.Ozito (Dremel) unit. These are about $40-odd from Bunnings. They take Dremel bits and are really useful for a miriad of jobs on the car.GMC Pressure Water sprayer. These are about $67 also from Bunnings. They work just as well (or better in some cases) than the more expensive high pressure sprayers and come with a 3 year warranty.Spray and cook canola oil does a better job than wd40 for a third of the price, but it isnt very good at penetrating stuck bolts though. It can also be used to take the dullness out of fibreglass IE boats & bumpers when rubbed in well.Petrol for degreasing, cheap and does the job better than any degreaser i have used. Carefull using Petrol for degreasing, dont get it on your skin and dont breathe it as it is carcenogenic!Auto Glym interior cleaner. This stuff is not cheap but does a really good job of cleaning old/greasy interiors. It even removed 99% of some Mastick that had been on cloth face of the Qute's Stato seats for a couple of years.Toothpaste for cleaning glass and instrument lens's. Best thing in my shed is woollube and contact cleaner. Anyone with a VN onward dash would recomend CRC Plasticote, good for protecting circuitboards and also solder joints. Stops them drying out cracking (Speedo's etc)De-Solv-it is great for removing glue and other stuff off clear plastics without scratching it or marking it.For undoing rusty bolts, took the front bumper brackets off the Bedford,been on 30yrs,sqeeked liked you know what, tried WD40 etc, still tough as nails then remembered had some Lanogard 3000 spray oil,(it's from sheep wool) magic stuff, got it from "Home" storesCar Polish, Car-Lack 68, its the bees knees in Car Polish, made in Germany, Polyethylen-Acryl-Compound, use it on hot or cold surface, very ,very easy to put on and take off, never had better, have used all others, have Signal Red paint, as you know its bad for the sun, could never get a good shine on the boot of the family car, always looked yuk, not now, this stuff has UV Protedtion, 30yrs experienceEveryday household glass cleaner works a treat on chrome,wipe on with one cloth, let it streak and wipe off with another clean cloth.On the subject of cleaning, I used to work at maccas when I was in the first few years of my time(made more money at maccas!). We used liquid ajax on the stainless cupboard doors, tiles etc, so I tried it on chrome, works just as well. And soda water was used at times depending on what manager was on, worked pretty good. If you love your engine bay nice + clean..I use industrial hand cleaner cream,rubbing over softly, then a hose down.Toothpaste is excellent for cleaning your jewelery too,Best stuff I have used for a metal pollish is 'BriteShine', comes in a yellow tin and is an impregnated cotton wadding. Brite shine, cloth in a tin, xclnt on chrome . Use it after you have finish with the Autosol on alloy for that finishing touch.Autosol for cleaning mags/stainless and chrome...Just be careful with that stuff, Did a chemical course through work and you would be surprised what happens if you leave it on your skin for to long. Some ingredients in cleaners can go straight through your skin and end up in your bone marrow....so if they say to where gloves, do it. Just letting you know.......and yes I do use it.INOX, this stuff beats WD40 and rust converter hands down (basically just a combo of the two) but its what I call "majic spray" best product I've come across. Not cheap but well worth it. They also make one called Lanox which is like that one mentioned earlier made from lanolin from sheeps wool, its a rust proofing agent or so I'm toldAlso, loktite no3 non hardening gasket sealant. Best gasket goo available, useful for anything and everything, fuel safe, oil safe, can be used on water and heater hoses to stop leaks AND prevent them getting stuck on. Its sticky as all hell and it never dries so it stays sticky as all hell forever... bewarefisholene is supposed to be good for preventing rust baking or bicarb soda for removing rust stains and surface rust Different soft metals, aluminiums/alloys react differently to various products. A particular product that works well on say a billet wheel will not work quite as well on another metal item...say an aluminium windscreen wiper bottle, or an air cleaner assembly.
This is due to the metals being of different grades.
What I do, is assess the metal before I begin my polish attempt, if its nice soft aluminium, I will try the different polishes that I have, each on a small out of the way spot, to see which one reacts the best. I try different clothes with different polishes too. I will go through an elimination process until I find a combination that works for that particular part.Often a paper towel will work better than any material cloth.I have tried a lot of different paper products over the years and found that 1 particular yellow paper, (like a servo disposable towel) fine like toilet paper, yet much more durable, could polish any and all alloys better than all the other cloths around. I had access to a big roll of it, yet made the mistake of not following up where it was sourced from by the guy who owned it. Trial and error is the way to go.Different polishes work differently too. I like California Custom "purple", but its only as good as the preparation thats done to the item beforehand. You can't expect a sweet finish on a rough surface. Sanding with the finest available wet and dry is essential to getting that over the top finish.Get the item as smooth as you possibly can before attempting to shine it with a polish, then begin with a polish and paper. Make sure the paper is just abrasive enough to react with the polish on the metal. Smooth mirror finishes can be obtained on a variety of surfaces with minimal effort, providing you stick to the basics. Having said that, you can't polish something in 5 minutes, from scratch.
Time needs to be given to each and every part. Some parts are a breeze, others a nightmare. Even a nightmare part can become a breeze, if the right combination is found.
Again, trial and error.Oh yeah, avoid an oxidizing agent, unless you wanna spend twice as long as usual to get that part done. Sure they eat out all the junk, but they also "key" the whole part, making the whole job a regrettable experience.
Don't mix polishes or cleaning products together either, as you could brew up something thats going to do more harm than good.Keep a note of what worked well on each part too....that way later, you can just grab the right combination and zoom through the job as quick as a flash.People freak when they see how fast you can get a sweet shine out of something that was very ordinary looking to begin with.Remember....try PAPER and a good polish. You don't need much, a handful goes a long long way.Use straight lines too....never polish in circles! 

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