Trimatic Install Tips

From Holdenpaedia

Originally submitted by T:
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Contents 1 Trimatic Installation Tips: 1.1 Removing the Trimatic Gearbox: 1.2 Removing the Torque Converter: 1.3 Reseating the Torque-Converter: 1.3.1 To Fit the Torque Converter: 1.4 The Crankshaft Locator: 1.5 Adjusting the Gear Selector: 1.6 Crankshaft Dowell: 1.7 Links: 1.8 Terms:

[edit] Trimatic Installation Tips:

[edit] Removing the Trimatic Gearbox:

When seperating a Trimatic Gearbox from a car, the Torque-Converter must be unbolted from the Starter-Plate, pushed well back into the Bellhousing and pinned back there by wiring it into place or by bolting it back into place using a Special Tool.

Note that in the rearmost position the Torque-Converter will contact a part of the Bellhousing and therefore will not rotate properly.

It is imperative the Torque-Converter is positioned in the rear most position. If it  moves forward prematurely it will become uncoupled from the Stator, Centreshaft, Turbine and Oil Pump and cause serious alignment problems when the Trimatic is refitted to an Engine.

 

[edit] Removing the Torque Converter:

After the Trimatic has been removed from the Engine the Torque Converter can easily be removed by sliding it forward from the Bellhousing. Take care to keep your Fingers out from under it. The Torque Converter is an heavy item.

 

 

 

 

 

[edit] Reseating the Torque-Converter:

If the Torque-Converter has been moved forward while the engine is removed it will have become unengaged.
Engagement of the Torque-Converter is vital since it ensures that the elements inside
it (notably the Turbine and Stator) and the Oil-Pump (outside it) make proper connection.

 

[edit] To Fit the Torque Converter:

1. Position the Oil Pump Tabs so that one is a the very top and the other at the very bottom as in the bottom Photo.

2. Position the large Indents in the Torque Converter Spout so they are also in the top and bottom position.

3. Fit the Torque Converter to the Input Shaft gently wobbling it from side to side to make each of the first 2 Splines engage.

4. Next comes to the Oil Pump Tabs. Very slightly turn the Torque-Converter first to the left, then to the right to make the Tabs and Indents line up while you wobble the Converter from side to side.

5. Once engaged, push the Torque Converter all the way back into the Bellhousing. When fully installed there will only be about 1/4" clearance between the Bellhousing and the back of the Torque Converter. In many cases it will not be possible to rotate the Torque Converter in the rearmost position because it will collide with the Casing. Adequate clearance exists only when the Converter is moved forward after being bolted to the Starter Plate .

6. Secure the Torque Converter all the way back in the Bellhousing with a length Wire that can be easily removed after fitting the Trimatic. You don't want the Converter to move forward until after the Trimatic is fully bolted to the Engine.

 

[edit] The Crankshaft Locator:

A Sleeve (Locator) is inserted into the gearbox end of the crankshaft. The dowel ensures that the engine end of the Torque-Convertor is held securely in the centre of the crankshaft. Ensure that a Crankshaft Locator is installed and is in good condition before reconnecting the Trimatic to the engine. When removing the Torque-Converter the Locator will either stick inside the crankshaft, adhere itself to the Torque-Converter or fall out on the ground.

 

[edit] Adjusting the Gear Selector:

After replacing a Trimatic the Gear Lever may need adjusting to ensure that the indicated
position of the Gear Lever (the lever inside the cockpit) matches the actual gear that is selected by the Selector Lever (the lever that is attached to the outside of the gearbox).
To do this, loosen the pinch bolt that holds the Selector Lever's shaft to the Gear Lever. Push the Selector Lever all the way forward. This will place the gearbox in Park.
Now locate the Gear Lever into the Park position and tighten the pinch bolt.
Check the operation of the Gear Lever and ensure that the engine will crank in Neutral and Park.

Rear view of a 6 cylinder Spigot (called a Locator when used with an Automatic).  Click to Enlargen. Photo by HQ_SS.	Trimatic V8 Torque Converter showing Couplings.  Click to Enlargen. Photo by HQ_SS.	3.3 EFI VK Engine. Note the Turbine and Stator Splines inside the Trimatic Bellhousing. The Oil Pump connection is not in view. Photo by VKanaSVZ. Click to Enlargen.
V8 Torque Converters don't use seperate Locators. The Locator is built into the Converter and cannot be removed. Click to Enlargen. Photo by HQ_SS.	The Turbine (smallest and innermost Spline) , the Stator second click (middle Spline) and the Oil Pump third click (large pair of Teeth on the outside).  Click to Enlargen. Photo by HQ_SS.	6 cylinder Locator for Trimatic Gearbox.  Click to Enlargen. Photo by HQ_SS.
6 cylinder Locator for Trimatic Gearbox.  Click to Enlargen. Photo by HQ_SS.	Trimatic 6 Cyl Torque Converter. The 2 large Indents in the Spout are for the Oil Pump Drive.  Click to Enlargen. Photo by VEIGHT.	The Photo shows the Oil Pump Tabs, one at the top and one at the bottom. Align these with the 2 large Indents in the Torque Converter Spout. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.
The Photo shows the Oil Pump Tabs (yellow squares), one at the top and one at the bottom. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.

 

 

 

[edit] Crankshaft Dowell:

EST 3.3 VK Commodores have a Dowell in the end of the Crankshaft. 

Even though the Starter Plate will only fit in one position, the Dowell is there to make for a precise fit .

 

The precision fit of the Starter Plate is necessary for the Electronic Spark Timing to work properly.

 

[edit] Links:

[edit] Terms:

Terms

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