RB30 into old Holdens

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RB30 into old Holdens:

Most of the following is cut and pasted from my replies to questions on this swap. I intend to come back and clean it up to make it flow better...
CRS do Engine Mount Plates, crossmember and speedo cables (the Engine Mounts are actually labelled as Torana ones anyway...) The conversion plates allow the use of the original Torana/HQ engine mounts.
Castle Auto Electrics do a Vehicle Speed Sensor that goes between the box and the speedo cable (the VL VSS is built into the back of the speedo head).
High Energy and CRS do conversion sumps (it needs to be reversed from the Commodore style sump). I have heard that Nissan Patrol RB30 sumps fit and are larger but I don't know for sure. If you find out, let me know...
Castle Auto Electrics also do a conversion wiring loom for about $350 - $400 for a manual or about $750 for an auto or you can do that yourself.
You will need to modify your tail-shaft.
You will end up with about 200 hp (150 kw) at the flywheel for the Turbo Version or 153 hp (114 kw) for the Naturally Aspirated (N/A) version with granny car type drivability.
From there, the sky is the limit...RB25 DOHC head, RB26 DOHC head with twin turbos....whatever you want up to about 750 hp...after that, they start to split the block between the 5th and 6th cylinders. This can be overcome and the best RB30's are putting out over 1,000 hp these days....
Do a Google Search for RB30 and RB26 and RB25 and RB20 as there is an absoute MOUNTAIN of info' on the Net about these tough little motors.
For a N/A RB30, you can bolt on an RB25 DOHC head and get an extra 40 hp (30 KW) straight away still N/A. Then there is a twin throttlebody inlet now available that will provide another 33 hp (25 KW)...How fast can you afford to go...

I am still looking for a cheaper alternative conversion sump than
shelling out about $550 to CRS or High Energy in Melbourne. I haven't
been able to find an RB powered GQ Patrol being wrecked in Perth either.
I have heard a rumour that one of the 2.8L Nissan diesels is an RB
series block but haven't been able to confirm that yet. If you find out,
please let me know. The Qute is sitting in the carport with no front
panels or motor/box waiting for a sump....she looks just so forlorn... :-(

Conversion Bits:

Fuel Tank Mods:

Surge Tanks:

This is an Email I got from a guy who has put an RB into an HJ or HX tonner...

G'day Dave,i'll try to cover everything.This
conversion is pretty straight foward in that the
engine and trans fit with almost no clearance problems
however the loom modification is the tricky part if
your running an auto as Castle auto electrics charged
me $750.00 two years ago,but mine was one of the first
ones so maybe things are different.Here's a list of
whats required.

1}Hadfield supplies mounts for about $100.00 but for
the crossmember he supplies a turbo 350 unit in pieces
unwelded for about $70.00.This is a slack ass way out
for him and when welded up and fitted it just fits
with typical modifications needed.Make your own if you

2}For the sump don't buy Hadfields he wants around
$600.00 for just a cut and shut job("its a full days
work mate"},go to High Energy in Dandenong vic as they
supplied a full race sump with all the bells and
whistles for around $350-400 i think it was.Definitely
cheaper than Hadfield.

3)Castle auto electrics supplied the loom which they
totally f****d up which caused hours of diagram
searches to rectify.However once the car was running i
took it to their shop where everything was sorted out
by a fella named Cameron who seems to be the brains
out there.It turned out that the loom assembly
instructions hadn't been followed and the lazy bastard
who was told to put it together simply modified a V6
loom.If you get a loom from them ask for Cameron to
make it.Possibly things are different now,and if you
get a loom as advertised its a very simple
installation,and worth the money.

4)The only other mods required were the alternator
bracket has to be raised slightly to clear the
steering box,opposite side for battery as air box goes
in place.I simply installed another battery tray on
the other side and used the original to hold the air
box.A plastic pipe extension from the intake snorkel
to the air box of about 6",new lines from the power
steering pump to box,for the radiator i used a V8 3
core but had to make up a custom radiator hose for the
return as the RB30 has the engine outlet and intake
both on the drivers side.This has the hose running
down the side of the radiator and then underneath to
the passenger side radiator return.This must be done
as the RB30 has an offset fan which restricts a simple
radiator modification.

5)If you run an auto the diff ratio must be changed to
at least 3.55 as the standard VL ratio is 3.45 this
will allow the speedo to work and also allow the
overdrive and lockup converter to operate
correctly.CAE also supply a speed sensor which simply
screws inbetween the hadfield speedo cable to tell the
computer whats going on.The VL power button is simply
a couple of wires which in my case are routed to a
push button switch on the dash.For the injection its
just a VL pump hose clamped to a bracket and a return

Thats about it.The conversion for me worked out
cheaper than the V6 as the initial engine and trans
cost was quite low.I picked up mine with only 106,000
k's for $600.00 compared to about $2200.00 or more for
a similar V6.Also i wanted to keep my power steering
and air but with the V6 it was one or the other as you
cant run both,however with the RB they can both be run
with loads of room to spare,this was one reason i
chose the RB.These engines are also everywhere at the
moment and the wreckers tend to charge peanuts for
them as VL's seem to go all the way to their deaths
with the same factory engine,the cars tend to fall
down around the engine.This is testament to their
brilliant design and durability.I decided on one of
these engines after seeing a mate's VL do a totally
neglected and thrashed 480,000 k's with just the odd
oil change and transmission service (as opposed to
V6's i've seen with holes in there blocks at less than
100),he then sold the car and its still going.Compared
to the old 253 the RB has more power everywhere and
for the first time i could actually pass cars without
it being dangerous as after 3000 revs it was all over
for the 253 whereas the RB just keeps making power all
the way,and as for economy its terrific.These engines
dont make lazy power like a V8 its all generated by
revs which if you have good sound insulation isn't a
problem.I'm also looking at fitting a toyota
supercharger soon which should be ideal.Anyhow if you
need any other info let me know.Cheers




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