Horn

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Page created by T June 30th 2007:

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Horn Relay top left of the image (silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle). Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Slow202.

Horn:

Horn Not Working:

202 UC Torana. Note  the original silver coloured Horn Relay between the Washer Bottle and the 2 black Bosch Headlight Relays. The Headlight Relays each activate one Thermo Fan. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.

Submitted by T on Sat, 30/06/2007 - 07:06.
1. Apply power direct to the horn from battery +ve. If it works go to step 2, otherwise replace the horn.
2. Find the horn relay. Activate the horn relay by grounding the horn button wire (black wire at the Relay). If the horn works got to 3 otherwise replace the horn relay. Check that the horn fuse is intact.
3. Remove the centre pushpad of the steering wheel and short the wire you find there to ground by a spare piece of wire. If the horn works
replace the pushpad otherwise go to 4.
4. Remove the steering wheel using the proper puller. Check that the horn grounding brush and track are in good condition (no scores in the track and the spring loaded grounding brush is long enough to reach the horn track). If not replace the brush and/or the blinker assembly its mounted in.
T

HZ Premier Horn Relay (round silver thing to the right of the plastic bottle. Kingswoods and Belmonts are similar. Click to enlargen. Photo by Bruno.
 

Replacement Horn Wire:

Submitted by T on Fri, 13/07/2007 - 13:11.

The horn wire is part of the blinker cable set. The cables enter the steering column via a connector on the left hand side of the column under the dash. Loosen the 3 bolts that hold the steering column to the under dash,
lower the column and you'll see how the blinker/horn cables slide through. Poke a draw wire through. Tie the new wire to the draw wire and pull the new wire through. Crimp the new wire onto the old wire at the brass horn brush. T

Replacing The Original Horn Relay With Standard 4 Pin Relay:

Locate the original silver can style 3 pin relay in the engine bay (usually on drivers side) Unplug the connector and remove the old relay. Cut the connector off.  One green wire comes from the fusebox and is the power feed, the other green goes to the horn, its easy to distinguish by looking at which way they go in the harness. The black wire is a negative switch feed from the horn pad on the steering wheel.  

Using fully insulated blue female crimp connectors, crimp a terminal onto each of the 3 wires, except that with the Green wire coming from the fusebox, crimp another wire with it (no more than 50mm long) into the same connector, and then crimp another connector onto that extra wire, so you have 2 connectors from the 1 wire.
 
Connect the Green wire from the car with the 2 connectors on it to terminals 30 and 86 on the new relay. Connect the black wire to terminal 85 on the relay. Connect the Green wire coming from the horn to terminal 87 on the relay. 

 

Relay suitable for switching the Coil primary current or the horn. Photo by HQDan.

 
4 Pin Horn Relay Replacement. Connect the Fused Green Wire to both 30 and 86.  Connect the Black Wire to 85 and the Horn green Wire to pin 87. Click to Enlargen. Photo by T.
 
HX Steering Wheel. Click to enlargen. Photo by Shawn Goodwin.
 
With the Horn Pad removed the Horn Wire is exposed. Remove the Yellow Connector from the Horn Pad and short the wire to Ground. The Horn should sound. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.
 
2 screws at the back hold the Horn Pad onto the Steering Wheel. The Screw Holes are visible each side of the yellow Connector. Another way to do the Horn test is to short the Contacts to the Steering Column with a Screwdriver. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.
 
One of the Screw Holes that holds the Horn Pad to the Steering Wheel can be seen to the left of the Steering Wheel centre. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.
 
Commodore Steering Column in an FJ. Note the Horn Brush to the left of the Steering Shaft. Photo by FJ53. Click to Enlargen.
 
HZ Steering Wheel removed showing the copper Horn Track on the underside of the Steering Wheel.  When the copper Track becomes worn out Horn problems result. Photo by Shawn Goodwin. Click to enlargen.
Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.
 
Horn Contact Brush. Photo by TUFFVB. Click to Enlargen.
 

 

HZ Horn Part. Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.
 
Contacts inside the Horn Pad can short causing the Horn to sound continuously. Replace the Horn Pad if this is the case. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.
 
HZ Horn Part. Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.

HZ Horn Part. Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.

HZ Horn Part. Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.

HZ Horn Part Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.

HZ Horn Button Retainer Screw. Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.

HZ Horn Part. Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.

HZ Horn Part. Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.

HZ Horn Part. Photo by BIJ. Click to Enlargen.

 


HQ - WB Kingswood Horn Sounds Continuously:

If after connecting everything up the Horn keeps sounding, the Contacts inside the Horn Pad may be shorted. Unscrew the Pad and disconnect its Wire from the Steering wheel. If the Horn stops, you've found the fault. Replace the Pad.

Related Workguides:

Installing Air Horns
 

Links:

Bruno's Shed

Steering Column Bolts

Rag Discovered Inside Horn

Terms:

Terms

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