Front End Greasing

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Page created by T Nov 21st 2014:

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Upper and Lower Inner Bushes for an HK Front End fitted with Straight (lower) and Angled (upper) Grease Nipples. Angled Grease Nipples can allow the grease gun to gain access when the circumstances are a challenge. Because the threads start in different places, Angled Grease Nipples can have different tightening points to allow the best positioning of the snout. Click to Enlargen. Photo by CondoHK69.

==Front End Greasing:==Suspension joints need periodic re-greasing, as per the workshop manuals, to prevent metal to metal contact within the joints.

===Accessibility:===Usually Old Holdens can be greased while the car is on the ground, which makes for an easier job than if the car has to be jacked up or taken somewhere to be raised on an hoist.

===Grease Type:===Use the GMH recommeded grease for the car.

===Grease Gun Loading:===It's vital to bleed all the air out of a Grease Gun before it will work properly. That's achieved a number of ways depending on the gun. Often there is a bleed screw at the top of the device which needs to be loosened to allow the air out. Try not to completely remove the screw during bleeding or you may not be able to get it back in without reloading the gun. Other types have an air valve on the top which can be released just like a tyre valve. Press in the centre of this valve to release the air.

===Grease Gun Cartridges:===Grease Guns are easily loaded without mess by using a grease cartridge available from automotive outlets.

===Bleeding:===The grease gun will not function properly unless all the air has been bled from it.

===Fitting The Grease Gun:===The Grease Gun simply plugs onto the nipple like an electrical plug and socket.

===Removing The Grease Gun:===The Grease Gun is removed from the nipple by bending the nozzle on an angle, as if you were trying to break it. The Grease Gun nozzle won't come off by being pulled along its axis.

===Grease Nipples:===These have a spring loaded check valve inside them which allows grease to flow in but no back out again. When the check valve fails, no grease can be forced into the nipple. Alternatively the nipple won't hold grease because the check valve does not seal properly and grease will blow back out after the gun has been released.

===Spare Grease Nipples:===It can be beneficial to keep some spare new nipples, because used nipples can fail by becoming blocked up or by not holding pressure. Replacing suspect nipples can be more beneficial than trying to resurrect broken ones. Grease nipples come in straight or right angle form. Replace the failed nipple with one of the same type and try to position Angled Nipples so they tighten in the same position.

===Straight And Angled Nipples:===Nipples come in both these forms to allow easy access to them from a grease gun. Often ball joints will have an angled nipple to allow a grease gun to access them from the side when the car is on the ground. Straight nipples are useful on the idler arm which is high enough to allow access from underneath and on tie-rod-ends which can be greased from the side.

===Angled Nipples:===There are occasions when an angled nipple will need to be unscrewed slightly to allow the grease gun access. Once the joint is greased, retighten the nipple to its original location. If there is a problem with grease oozing out after repositioning, you will have to dry different grease nipples until you find one whose thread allows it to position better. Like any device with a screw thread on it, grease nipple threads can start in different places.

===Grease Nipples:===Always wipe each nipple totally clean to prevent the ingress of dirt. If dirt gets into the check valve, it will not seal and all the grease will ooze back out again. If that does happen, the grease nipple will have to be removed and cleaned. Sometimes replacing the grease nipple is the only way to fix the problem.

===Blocked Nipples:===This happens when the spring loaded check valve inside the grease nipple becaomes jammed. The grease nipple will need to be removed cleaned and reinstalled. In extreme cases the nipple will need to be replaced.

===Idler Arm:===Start on the idler arm first because the threads have narrow clearance and sometimes getting grease into them can seem impossible. Pump some grease into the nipple until it seems no more will flow in, then leave the idler alone for a while and work on another joint. When you come back to the joint you'll find the pressure has dropped. Pump more grease in and abandon the joint again while you work another. It can take a while before the grease will work through.

===Pre-Greased:===Some joints have no nipple and are pre-greased for life. These need no greasing. On rare occasions a greasable joint has not had a nipple hole drilled and a nipple fitted. These can seize over time so when buying any joint make enquiries about it being pre-greased ot not.

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===Links:===

Front Suspension

===Terms:===Terms


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