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Page created by T Oct 9th 2007:

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Kingswood Electric Clock. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Shawn Goodwin


Electronic Clocks:

Extract from Fastlane post for fixing failed Kingswood Electric Clocks. 
Anonymous Poster 
<img src="" border="0" alt="" hspace="3" width="15" height="15" />Posted - 05/02/2005 :  6:56:40 PM  <img src="" border="0" alt="Reply with Quote" title="Reply with Quote" hspace="6" width="15" height="15" align="absmiddle" />
G'Day Kev...I am no expert but here goes. On each capacitor there is a description of capacity and voltage and you need to replace them with the same or higher.The ones I used were 10mfch @25V,47 mfch @ 50V. This was the desc on the side of the capacitors. You will need to pull the clock apart to get to the circuit board. The mechanicals of my clock appeared to be in excellent order as the second had would move for about 10 seconds when I fiddled with the time adjustment prior to fixing it. This indicated to me the mechanism wasnt seized. My clock is in a HX...Good luck
 T adds - Note you can use capacitors with a higher voltage (the V number) but the 10mf and 47mf (the size of the capacitors) must be the same or the speed of the clock can be affected (may make the clock run fast or slow).  T adds - The Capacitors are likely to be polar. That means they will have a plus and minus terminal. Plus must be connected to plus and minus to minus otherwise they will explode. If there is no plus or minus label, then they are biploar Capacitors and can be soldered in either way around. DM adds - Extra info: To pull the clock assembly apart you will need to do a few things not explained here (Mine was GTS yellow needle (HZ), although I guess they should all be the same?). Mine only needed the capacitors replaced.  1. Undo all the nuts on the back of the steel barrel, the fibro washer can just be taken off, slide a razor blade/small screwdriver under it to lift it (it's probably stuck from 30+ years of being in the one spot)2. To remove the front glass (plastic), there is a small flat head grub screw in the time changing knob, undo this.  3. The glass (plastic) has been metled on, you need to CAREFULLY cut this off so as not to break it4. The internals will slide out once the plastic has been cut off (clear plastic cylinder)5. Undo the seconds hand on the face by turning it anticlockwise, it is a long thread and takes a while, just perservere!6. Carefully lift the minute and hour hands, they are just pressed on and can be easily pryed off (carefull not to damage clock face)7. Undo screws to remove back8. Undo screw holding electrical board on (can't remember if it was one or two).9. Pull clock workings out through front of housing10. Replace capacitors with soldering iron there are two 10mf-25V and 0.47mf-50V.  MAKE SURE you take note of positive and negative sides of capacitors!!11. Reassemble and carefully attach the glass with glue 

Mechanical Clocks:

  As an ex-RAAF Instrument Fitter, I've fixed a few mechanical Holden clocks over the years, and without spares you better hope it's just a lubrication issue. The HQ clocks are the easiest to fix because 9 out of 10 just need the electric motor taken out and a drop of CRC or WD40 squirted into the motor. Then connect the motor to 12 volts and let it spin like a motor for a while to allow the lubricant to penetrate the innards. The problem with HQ clocks is they use an electric motor for main spring tension, but the poor little motor just wants to spin like a motor should. The HX-HZ clocks (non-GTS) usually only need lubrication as well, just be carefull you don't fill the things with CRC or it'll get on to the face and eat the numbers and graduations, and generally make a mess. Fixing the electronic clocks (as opposed to mechanical) is pretty well explained in the Holdenpaedia. Carlos
Dissembled Clock. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.
Dissembled Clock. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.

Dissembled Clock. Photo by Juzzy. Click to Enlargen.

GTS Electric Clock image showing the Electrolytic Capacitors that dry out and need replacing. The person's thumb is pointing to one of them. 16 V identifies the maximum working voltage it can withstand. The other has 85 degrees indicating the maximum operating temperature it can withstand. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Danny Wilkinson.
GTS Electric Clock image showing the Electrolytic Capacitors that dry out and need replacing. This is the view that the thumb sees. The closest Capacitor appears to be the 10uf one. Click to Enlargen. Photo by Danny Wilkinson.
Clock Internals. Photo by . Click to Enlargen.
HZ GTS Clock showing the connector  orientation. Photo by Dexter99. Click to Enlargen.

HJ - WB Sports Clock Wiring:

By mackv8 15/01/14@21:54 Shed 3028 fist up the wires don't look to be locked in to the white plug properly.
the orange wire is power and goes to the terminal that is at the top in both photos. (the black wire going to the clock body)
the gray wire is illumination (dash light) and goes to the black wire going to the raised part, its the globe holder. the earth wire from the loom (black) plugs on to the terminal spot welded to the side of the clock. the clock is skewed to the dash face with two skew's

End of submissoin by mackv8

WB Caprice Electric Clock. Click to Enlargen. Photo by tonnacrap,
WB Caprice Electric Clock. Click to Enlargen. Photo by tonnacrap.
WB Caprice Electric Clock. Click to Enlargen. Photo by tonnacrap.


Thread 1

Darren Coates Clock Repair

Fastlane Link

Danny Wilkinson's Shed

Dash Clocks H Page Clock Activation Thread



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